Discussion: Which thumb compass?

I came to orienteering from road running and hill walking. I’ve used a Silva Ranger for many years mainly for hillwalking using OS maps (interestingly the difference between 1:50K OS maps http://apd.anquet.com/products/os150000.jpg and orienteering maps with their control descriptions took some getting used to, but that’s a different story).

Im sorry if this has been asked before ( I did do a search). My question is… Are Silva Spectra thumb compasses difficult to use compared to using a rotating bezel to take a bearing or are the Silva Spectra thumb compasses easier to use to get a quick rough direction?

Am I right in guessing that you align the entire Silva Spectra with where you want to go on the map, look at what colour box the needle is in and then as you run keep the needle in that box. For example in the photo that I found http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ix3rH1GRZ4c/maxresdefault.jp...
, they would keep the north needle in yellow 1 dot as they run. I imagine this only works if you set the map first so the top of the map is orientated facing north, while this wouldn’t matter taking a bearing with a rotating bezel.

How easy is it to make the mistake of being 180 degrees out with a thumb compass and how can it be avoided?

My other option is a Moscow 3, which looks like it has a rotating bezel that’s used to take a bearing like you would with my “normal” compass.

Apart from the price, the colour of the needle and the needles speed vs stability does anyone know what the difference is between the Silva 6 NOR Spectra and Silva 6 Jet Spectra? They look identical ! Is the 6 Jet really worth the extra cost and do people prefer this type over the Moscow compasses?

Is the Moscow 8 a hybrid that can be used for ether method? Or would it over complicate things; I read one thread on here where one guy said "All you need is a simple needle that points north. Anything else is irrelevant decoration".

I prefer a rotating-bezel thumb compass like the Moscow 3 or Arrow. I find that it is a lot easier to maintain a bearing in low-visibility (e.g., fight or night).

So for me, it really depends on terrain. If it's a sprint or the type of map where you don't need bearings, I'm fine with a fixed thumb compass. I usually rotate the bezel to north and occasionally don't touch it for an entire race. But when I need it, I use it.

I'm almost certain the Model 8 is a rotating-bezel design.

Regarding 180s: I think you 180 less with a thumb compass. It's all in one hand, and you're more likely to notice. I use the map in my thumbing hand and the baseplate in the other. The thumb compass and map are in one hand, obviously, so you see everything in one glance, rather than having to compare right hand to left hand.

Any compass where you can tell the north end of the compass needle from the south will work (so long as you can tell north on the map from south).
In taking a bearing all you are doing is measuring an angle of travel off the meridian line on the map. Anyone should be able to figure out the same angle off a needle with as much accuracy as needed.
The most useful feature of a base plate is the ruler.

Avoiding 180's - I doubt that compass type matters much.

For me the key is to use the fact that all writing on an O' map, including the control numbers #1 - #N, MUST be oriented north. No matter how a map is folded, there is (nearly) always some writing to compare to the North end of compass and it only takes a quick glance. [But 180 errors still occur 'now and then' as good technique fades when tired.]

There are several ways to 'take a bearing'. Experiment and find what works best for you.

Another variable in compass selection is the choice between "stable but slow settling needle" and "fast settling needle, but more vibration". I prefer the former but faster runners probably select the latter.

Numbers "must" be oriented to north (per rules), but the rule isn't always followed.
When numbers are aligned with the top of the paper but north lines are skewed, I tend to make mistakes.

Ben, you are right in your guess as to how the Spectra thumbies work, and also that they make it easy to get and follow a quick rough direction. However you do not need to have North at the top of the map. On an orienteering map there are additional clues to where North is - most text should be oriented to North, and especially the control numbers (but beware confusing 6 and 9).

If you prefer a bezel, then the Moscompass 2 or 3 are excellent value. The needles are pretty much as fast and stable as the Spectra, and you can also use them in a similar way to the Spectra, ie instead of turning the bezel, just use the needle to align the map with North.

The Silva 6 NOR has a very inferior needle to the Spectra and Moscompass. It is slow to settle, and is unstable while running.

I don't like the Moscompass 8 system, it appears much more complex than the Spectra.

I agree with others that you can do a 180 with any type of compass. One way to avoid 180s is, as soon as you spot your control don'r rush in and punch, slow down, work out the bearing to the next control and make a mental note of a feature that you will hit 50-100m after exiting the control.

Although I've been using the same kind of compass for the past 20 years, if you sent me out on a course with a different compass, it really wouldn't make much of a difference. I suspect the same is true for most experienced orienteers. For me, the most important feature is that it's a thumb compass that fits on my right hand, and that's just a matter of convenience because it's how I like to carry it.

To avoid making a 180, pay attention to what you're doing. If you're making a 180 because you're blindly following a compass, pay a lot more attention.

Just got a KANPAS for testing, they seem pretty good. Nice build, stable needle, declination adjustment looks OK for this region, very competitive price.

Like JJ says, once its on thumb, it really seems to make little difference.