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Attackpoint - performance and training tools for orienteering athletes

Discussion: nice job. If you've never d...

in: KFish; KFish > 2016-11-28

Nov 29, 2016 5:31 PM # 
MIclimber:
nice job. If you've never done the route before, with no takes, no beta from others, and without weighting the rope at all, that's considered an onsight. if you got beta on moves, then it would be a flash. If you've tried the route before, and then got it cleanly, with no takes or rope weighting, then it's a redpoint, although that's reserved for leading, so on top rope it's sometimes called a green point, but most just say redpoint or sent. Pinkpoint is a redpoint, where the draws are already hung.
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Nov 29, 2016 5:41 PM # 
KFish:
I watched Syd do it first. Other than that it was my first attempt, so I suppose its a flash.

I was looking up the correct terms on a climbing encyclopedia last night and just kept going in circles, haha. Thanks for clarifying :)

in case your interested, its the route with pink holds on the front of the middle section by the entrance to the bouldering cave. (wow its hard to describe locations in the gym...)
Nov 30, 2016 3:57 AM # 
MIclimber:
I'm sure there's forum discussions somewhere on what constitutes beta. But imo, unless you're a badass climber setting up for something outside on hard line outside as an first ascent to be documented in a mag or film, I think you're safe in the gym to say you've onsighted a route if you simply watched you're partner do it. Getting verbal instructions on certain critical moves is probably where the distinction gets made.

There's actually names for each section of the wall, it used to be hanging up somewhere in the gym. I don't know them all, but the coke bottle, the prow, and the knife blade are some. I'll check it out tomorrow, but I think I climbed it last week.
Dec 1, 2016 1:58 AM # 
MIclimber:
Welp I got on the 11- pink holds and almost blew the crux about 3 to 4 moves in, where you kinda go for those 3 postive holds. I can't heel hook anymore cuz of my knees, so had to stick the dynamic throw. The rest was fun probably fairly rated. Unlike the 11- around the corner to the left that was more like 10b. I onsighted the turquoise route next to it with the mantle move on the two black triangles, that was tricky, probably 11a/b.
Dec 8, 2016 3:33 PM # 
KFish:
I fell on the orange 11- (now named "ego boost") :(. I agree it was way to easy, but i got to the last couple moves with the crimps, and my forearms were spent from an 11 i had tried before. Darn!

So many new routes the last couple weeks!

This discussion thread is closed.