Training Log Archive: Kat

Yellow (5.6) +black (5.9).
Purple (5.8) + red 5.6
blue (5.6) + yellow (5.7) (near slab wall)
black 5.7+orange 5.6 (tree wall)
incline pink 5.8 (only fell once - strength getting better)
some attempts at a purple 5.8, but it involves a big stretch in the beginning to a sloper.

Physical therapy.

Yellow 5.6 (or 5.7?) near entrance 2x
White 5.8+ - experimented with moves a bit, but still not totally smooth
purple 5.8& red 5.6
green 5.10 - got to the dish without falling, then fell many times. Cheated to get past that, then got stuck again with the bad holds, and then got stuck again at the top. Hard.
black 5.7&orange 5.6 on blue wall
attempt at purple 5.9 on incline - failed after first few moves
neon yellow 5.8+ - break in the middle. holds are weird!
pink 5.9+ (slight incline) - hard, kept taking breaks, then gave up 75% of the way there
yellow 5.10 (slight incline) - tried the first few moves, then got stuck (sloper hold difficult)
Today was all about experimenting and testing my limits. Next time I should just work on technique.

Physical therapy.

Yellow 5.7 - did it fairly swiftly, but still felt awkward (first one always does)
Orange 5.7 - feet slipped off one hold! really not feeling great today.
purple 5.8 (near entrance) - did it with no falls this time!
Pink 5.8 (incline) - got all the way up to a big orange hold (over half way up) and took a break, then took another break closer to the top. physically hard.
White unrated - gave it another try, but got stuck at the same place with the hold - think it might just be too difficult for me at the moment
purple 5.8 (same wall as white) - got stuck in one place and decided I was just too tired to do it, so came down (did it right after the white)
white 5.8 (near entrance)- struggled in the middle, but finished
green 5.10 - my first project! The first few moves were all difficult, but doable with concentration, then came crux move #1, which I could probably do with sufficient practice and some added finger strength. Then came crux move #2, which would require a lot more finger strength, and following that there were some good holds again. So basically, it's doable but I need to sharpen my skills and get stronger first.
black 5.7 incline - I did it without falling!
blue 5.9 - couldn't do anything with this one today - just tired, I guess.

Run in East Rock - very sunny and wet outside, with melting snow everywhere. Went up to the top of the hill interval trail and back, just like last time. Left knee felt ok at the end - a bit tight and weird, but no nagging pain like last time. Really beautiful day out, and it was nice to get the heart rate up and feel like I was working.

PT appt in the morning, then 25 minutes of strength in the evening.

Felt great tonight! Avoided doing incline routes so that I felt strong even at the end.
Warm-up: clambering around in the back, then did the white bouldering route
yellow 5.7 in big room- finished (felt much easier than the first time I did it!)
white 5.8 in big room- figured out the move (1 break), then finished it
blue 5.9 in big room- fell once or twice, but finished it fairly quickly
white unrated - kept swinging out when i did the jump for the hold, and afterwards struggled to the top, very difficult
pink, yellow, blue next to slab wall - did all of them, relatively easy 5.6-5.7
orange 5.6 on blue wall - fine
black 5.7 on blue wall- harder, needed to change feet a lot in the middle
neon yellow 5.8+ on blue wall - fell a few times (bad holds), but finished
yellow 5.8 in big room - kept falling because hands got sweaty holding on to the wall, this one's really tough!
Felt awesome!! :)

Felt kind of tired tonight. Started off on the "easy" wall with the 5.5, 5.6 but it's got an incline in the beginning and I didn't realize the corner wall was on there, so made it harder than I had to. Gave up on the 5.7 there because I was too tired doing all three in a row. Then did:
purple 5.8 (as last time)
black 5.9 (as last time)
two easy routes in the back practicing movement
some bouldering+turning practice
1/3 white un-rated in big room - will have to try that again
red unrated in big room - I actually did all of it the first time on sight, no falls

C • running 3

Some bouldering, some practicing steps and turning on the flat wall in the back room, and then a few top-rope climbs, 3 different 5.7s, the purple 5.8 in the big room again, and the (easy?) black 5.9 in the big room. Felt great!

Again, some midnight training. There's really not enough time during the day.

Physiotherapy. I doubt this is really helping, but might as well go. More electric exercises.

Short run around East Rock. Feet felt fine, but knee started hurting by the end. I just don't know what to do about that. It's hard to believe that after two weeks of no running, "runner's knee" can bring on pain after a 20-minute jog.

C • maybe some deep water running? 1

I'm getting better!

orange 5.7 - good, finished
blue 5.8 (same wall as orange): kept falling off after the first few holds
red 5.6 - good, finished
white 5.8 - follow-through with the leg was cool, but got stuck after that
purple 5.8 - took a break in the middle, but finished
pink 5.8 (incline) - took 3 breaks, finished
pink 5.8 (another incline) - got half-way
purple 5.8 (in big room) - got stuck at the end again, just like last time
blue 5.7 (incline) - needed to take a few breaks, very tiring
black 5.7 (incline) - needed to take several breaks, but finished

A bit of exercise at midnight before going to bed...

Calves really tight.

At Prime Climb with Triet and Tullia. This time I did a couple of the trickier 5.7's, and then attempted some 5.8's. I actually completed one of them (the purple), and got halfway on the incline pink, and made some minor progress on the yellow and blues. Arms from the elbows down were exhausted by the end.

Strength training in the gym! Wore the vibrams, but taped the right heel the way Zan showed me and it felt fine. I'm still really careful with it, but it's not actively bothering me.

Heel seems almost fine now - walked around barefoot at home and didn't feel pain, although there is still some tingling and calf tightness.

C • skiing? 2