Training Log Archive: Kat

2 x yellow 5.7-
2 x red 5.8-
yellow 5.9 (fell once all the way at the end, hands sweaty)
red (flagging practicing), back room
blue 5.9 (back room) attempt, got halfway up, too tired
unrated blue (didn't see hold)
2 x slab
bouldering V1
blue 5.10- fell again at that jumping section, but then Brian suggested moving my right foot up, and this helped. Still hard, but a more doable move

This was kind of a tired day, and the bouldering hurt my hands (literally tore some skin off). Ow.

2x yellow 5.7
2x new purple 5.6
red 5.8 + yellow flat 5.9 (finally did all of it!)
new blue (unrated)
new pink (unrated) - fell multiple times, forearms *very* pumped
easy blue slab route + pink slab route (gave up and did blue again)
blue 5.10- - fell in the middle (same place as last time), then worked on it
blue 5.10 - forced myself to jump but didn't get a good grip on the hold, but think I worked out a slightly better jump position to jump from. Tried it again right from the bottom, but forearms shaking, so had to give up
new green (unrated) - small crimpy holds and very few of the
new green (unrated) just fell once this time, progress! fingers sore
yellow 5.9 incline - did ALL of it!!!!!!
blue 5.8 (slopey) - did all of it, way better than expected
blue 5.8 (ceiling cave) - had to take a break mid-way through because my fingers were so sweaty, otherwise did it
blue 5.9 - attempted all the way at the end, but wasn't going well, aborted

Summary: Today was awesome, such progress in my climbing! And also a new record for number of routes done in one day.

2x yellow 5.7
2x orange 5.7
purple 5.8 + white 5.8
red 5.8 + yellow 5.9 (fell once b/c didn't see hold)
blue 5.10- (fell a bunch of times, tried to figure things out)
blue 5.10 -(figured out first section, fell at other two sections)
blue 5.10- (did whole first half very smoothly, but fell twice at the top. jumping moves are hard.)
yellow 5.9 (got higher than ever, then needed a break)
Elbow still hurts, but doesn't stop me from climbing.

Physical therapy. Brenda taped my knee to keep the kneecap in place. Tape was fine at first, but twelve hours later the pulling on my skin was bothering me, just like she warned me it would. This might be helpful if used infrequently,though.

2x yellow 5.6
pink 5.7 (incline)+black 5.8 (incline)
pink 5.8+
2x red 5.8
orange 5.9+ (figured out a slightly better way to get past the crux)
yellow 5.9 (front room, had a couple of slips, but could do it)
black 5.9
blue 5.8+ (orange-yellow-blue wall in front room, finally did this one, with falls)
yellow 5.8+ (same wall, this was really tough at the end)
yellow 5.8 (incline, back room, did all of it!)
attempt at beginning of blue 5.10-

Didn't feel awesome today, not especially flexible or inspired, but managed to get a lot done.

Right heel hurts. :(

Orienteering with my mom on Pole Brook, about 45 minutes in total with lots of standing around discussing the map and lots of walking. She was very quick hopping around on rocks and I had fun with it. Just wish my heel wasn't hurting! Ever since I got up today it hurt (maybe from all the high-heeled shoes I tried on yesterday, or the flip-flops I wore for the later part of the evening). At least the knee didn't act up.

Jogging up the big hill and towards all the others, but then the heel hurt enough that I decided to turn around and head back. Knee still ok, and running felt more natural in general.

Core, PT exercises, and some forearm curls. My abs aren't near as good as Alex's (she's actually got muscle definition!) but decent.

C • Ha! 1

Was all excited to go running yesterday, then realized I couldn't because Boris took the car to Harriman. Can't run today either because I'm in NYC and my family took the car to drive my brother to the skating rink. Maybe tomorrow?

Saw John Dailinger again today about the knee. He is such an awesome guy. News is that the muscles around the knee are stronger now, which is good, and he'll have Brenda show me a taping method that might help keep the kneecap in place during running. Because of the hyperextension, it's likely that I will never truly be able to have the knee track properly, but perhaps through more exercises, taping, and running on uneven surfaces for controlled amounts of time, I can do a reasonable amount of running pain-free. He said that surgery is an option - the tendon could be cut off and then reattached to the knee cap differently - but the likelihood of this being successful is low, so he doesn't recommend it. I believe that.

2x red 5.6
2x yellow 5.7
pink 5.8+
2x red 5.8
2xpink 5.7
2 x white 5.8
(Ok, I lied when I said I'd only do 5.8s today. I got bored and Boris convinced me to try a 5.9 so he could see me fail at something.)
black 5.9 (got it this time, just one slip, maybe?)
orange 5.9+ fell in the beginning (foot slipped), but got past the tricky move in the middle by dragging myself along the wall using two fingers! Sweet.
yellow 5.9 (got it, with one fall when I got confused towards the end)
purple 5.8 - felt easy
yellow 5.9 incline - fell in the middle (tired), but did the whole second half

Elbow hurt a bit in the beginning, but didn't notice it much after I warmed up. Will do the standard rehab exercises for it.

PT session with Brenda again.

Run at West Rock with Boris!

PT session with Brenda + some more stuff at home.

C • woooo PT 6

WCOC local event at Five Ponds. I did two-thirds of a brown course. Knee held up reasonably well, although I could feel it after about 20 minutes. Beautiful day and so nice to be out again!

Right elbow hurt the last couple of days, and it flared up *a lot* during the climbing, although it actually seemed to get slightly better towards the end (maybe because I was keeping my arms straighter?).

yellow 5.7
pink 5.8 (nice!)
yellow 5.8 (new) no falls this time, but still not elegant
pink 5.7 (nice)
yellow unrated - attempt, didn't get very far
red 5.8 - I love this one!
orange 5.9+ (other than one move, I did the rest!!)
pink 5.9+ (still can't do middle section or top part)
black 5.7 (incline in front room) - nice
black 5.9 (managed to get to the top with a couple of falls)
yellow 5.9 - top part really weird, couldn't get that to work out
purple 5.8+ front room incline - weird last section
yellow 5.9 incline - did the last move! should be able to do it all soon...
yellow 5.8 incline - tired...

Won't climb again until Thursday, and that evening I will only do 5.8's and lower.

East Rock again. Knee mostly felt ok, although going uphill I could feel the bottom of it hurt when pushing down with each step. Can't tell if it's getting better because of the rehabilitation exercises or because of the rest...

C • just as long as it's working :) 7

Electrotherapy exercises.

Really warm, beautiful day. Knee hurt some, but bothered me less when I would run off-trail.

C • 20 whole minutes! 1

Red 5.6 + purple 5.8
green 5.10 - got to same point as last time, just past big disk
orange 5.6+black 5.7 in back room
pink 5.9+ (slight incline) : got to the big red disk today, then with some breaks got almost to the top
pink 5.8 - nice
yellow 5.8 (new route) - feet kept slipping at the top.
orange 5.9+ (some incline) - this was a whole lot of work and I kept falling, but I also kept figuring stuff out and got just three holds away from the top!
attempt at purple 5.9 wasn't happening, so did yellow 5.7 (clearly tired!)

I actually did a whole lot for the 1:40 that I was in the gym. And considering that it's Thursday, I climbed fairly well! My goal of being able to climb a 5.10 is feeling almost attainable.

Yellow 5.6 twice
yellow 5.7
pink 5.8 - did it much better with Triet's suggestions to move my feet higher
white 5.8 (in front room) forgot how to do it, so fell a couple of times, but otherwise the route didn't feel as difficult as I remembered
purple 5.9 - did it for the first time!! Again, Triet's technical advice was great
yellow 5.9 - fell only twice, all the way at the top
white 5.8 twice (in back room, lots of round holds)
green 5.9- fell a bunch of times, but managed to get up there this time
blue 5.6+yellow 5.7
green 5.10 - made it past the bowl!!!! (Thanks to Triet again. Key move was putting right foot high and leaning over (using leg and core muscles). But next move still impossible for me.
black 5.10 - attempted the beginning, then quit
yellow 5.8 (now it's graded) - got up there, but fell once and was very sloppy
Felt pretty good at the end! I love Tuesday nights.

Event: CSU Spring Training Camp #1
 

Beautiful day, really great to be outside and I even saw a pair of swans out in East Rock! Left knee sore afterwards.

Knees hurt a bit during/after.

red 5.6, purple 5.8
yellow unranked - fell three times, tired
red 5.8-, and yellow 5.9 (just first section)
yellow 5.8 in blue room - fell once towards the end
green 5.9- got stuck in the beginning, so did yellow 5.8 again instead
orange 5.7+ neon yellow 5.8+
yellow 5.9 - fell three times, just like last time, tired