Training Log Archive: Kat

Today I couldn't do the backbend quite as well as last time - flexibility definitely changes from day to day, although overall it is getting better.

Was pretty strong tonight.

red and green routes right next to the entry, probably 5.6 and 5.7
prange 5.7+
blue 5.7+
purple 5.8 (corner route)
yellow 5.9
white 5.9 (same wall as the orange, tough but fun, fell a couple of times)
red 5.8+ (steep, very pumped)
black 5.8+ (arms exhausted)

My back bend is getting better.

None of my usual climbing partners are around this week, so I did some bouldering. Did a V0, some V1s, and a couple of V2s. Also, tested some new climbing shoes. The ones I have are good for all-day multi pitch stuff, but not for super technical things since they are not tight enough nor aggressive enough. These new shoes hurt my feet, but in fact I suspected (and some of the others confirmed) that I need to get a whole size smaller. This will make it hurt even more, but after several weeks they get broken in and become more bearable. In particular, they will mold to my foot and give me even better grip on the small tiny holds! :)

C • shoes 3

I love stretching.

Some strength and stretches at home before climbing.

Felt much better today after having cut my fingernails, and also just because it was the second time back into it. Did most of the 5.8s:

red 5.6 (nice, need to remember what it's like to stretch out)
orange 5.7 (next to entrance, still tough in the beginning)
purple 5.8 corner climb (nice!)
black 5.8 on right wall (fell once)
orange 5.7+ near door (hard)
black 5.7 incline (didn't like, fell once)
green 5.7 (much better than last time)
blue 5.8 (small holds, switch feet a lot, nice)
blue 5.8- (right near entrance, nice)

The routes are different here than, say, in the Stanford climbing gym. The main change is probably that at Prime Climb there are smaller holds all across the board, making it tougher.)

Knees still sore, so I put the treadmill at 10% incline and walked then jogged super slowly, just to get the circulation going.

Today was the first time in a really long time that I've been asked out on a date! Throughout the 8 years that Boris and I have been together, there have been many guys that expressed interest in me, but generally they either met Boris early on or did a basic google search on me before trying anything romantic. Tonight's guy wasn't one of the shy types. He caught up to me as I was leaving the gym and walking over to my car. My first thought was that I was about to get robbed (it's only a matter of time in New Haven), but then I saw that he was Asian and decided I must have dropped something on the sidewalk. Wrong again. The first thing he said was that he'd seen me getting in some last reps before closing time and thought I looked adorable, so he wanted to introduce himself. We ended up talking for ten minutes, during which time I informed him that I was married, but also invited him to come climbing. I'm so busy that the question, "Are you doing anything later this week?" almost made me laugh, but I was flattered anyway. :)

Did a tour of the 5.6 and 5.7s at Prime Climb. I haven't climbed in a while and I had long fingernails, so this proved more difficult than it should have been.