Training Log Archive: Yvonne

From Skaftafell campground/Visitor Center area in Vatnajokull, hiked to Svartifoss - yet another of Iceland's geological wonders. Take a lush green canyon full of wildflowers, add a half-circle of black columnar basalt cliffs that resemble a giant pipe organ, and plunk a 80' waterfall in the middle. Wow (for like the 100th time on this trip).


Hit a cultural/historical area on the way back with preserved turf houses nestled in a hillside of wildflowers looking out onto the sand plains. Remnants of a former farm.

After lunch, hiked the approach to Skaftafellsjokull glacier. Stopped when it got icy. Messed around at the lagoon at the foot of the glacier.

Kiddos pooped but handled the hiking today extremely well! At camp in the evening, watching their interactions with the Icelandic kids camping next to us was priceless.

Scored a small bag of the elusive ice cubes at the little grocery in Faskrudsfjordur. No ice for 2 days prior. Also in the grocery, scored 4 skeins of beautiful Icelandic wool yarn for $2.25/ea - the ONLY thing I found in Iceland that was cheaper than in the US.

Drove to Vatnajokull N.P along S coast. Along the way, hiked to Sveinsstekkfoss waterfall, trails in the Halsaskogur forest preserve (looked like a haven for elves), and an interesting beach with teal-colored sand. Stopped at the Jokusarlon glacier lagoon for an amphibious boat tour amongst the massive blue glacier chunks/icebergs as they slowly drifted out to sea. Guide passed around some crystal-clear ice chunks for everyone to eat ("enjoy some 1,000 year old ice!"). Delicious! Oh, the irony considering our earlier hunt for ice. Rainy, foggy and rather bone-chilling, but nobody really noticed - distracted by nature.


Hiked out to the black sand Diamond Beach for yet another wonderous sight. Large and small glacier ice chunks from the lagoon were being tossed back on shore by the waves so the entire expansive beach looked like it was strewn with glittering jewels. Just wow. A harbor seal was hanging out at the water's edge.

At Vatnajokull, set up camp in the drizzle. Ramen never tasted so good! Hiked around lower park area after fam was in bed. Pretty soggy, but warmed by duty free vodka.

Grojtega cave, hiked trail around circumference of Hverfjall volcano crater rim (very windy and rainy but thoroughly enjoyed by all - like a moonscape), Sigurgeirs Bird Museum (outstanding if you're into birds, loved the architecture of the museum building too), boiling mud pots (only breathing through mouth - overwhelming hydrogen sulfide), then drove to Faskrudsfjordur (closest I can get to correct spelling w/o using Icelandic letters). Campground was on the edge of a tiny town next to a very picturesque fjord surrounded by mountains. Spectacular. And spectacular weather too - sunshine and clear blue sky on this part of the island.

Also hiked (3-4 mi) around town in evening after fam went to bed. Local kids playing soccer at midnight were not missing out on even a scrap of summer daylight.

3-hr whale/puffin watching boat trip from Husavik. Sunny, warm and beautiful. Wildly successful - saw at least 10,000 nesting Puffins, 3 Northern Bottlenose whales and 6 Humpback whales that were hanging out feeding, rolling, and diving for nearly an hour right up close to the boat. Such a treat! Highlight of the trip for sure. Went to Husavik Whale Museum.

Then drove to Lake Myvatn area, set up camp near Reykjahlio (Vogar travel), & hit the Myvatn Nature Baths. NOT enjoyed by the kids - too much hydrogen sulfide in the air for them! Had to admit, the smell was rather distracting. Everything else was super cool. Fun to do once. Midges in the Myvatn area were rather intense in places but fortunately not at our campground, plus they didn't bite - just fly in your face - so not really a big deal.

After kids went to bed, I found a back road adjacent to our camp and hiked to the Hverfjall trailhead and a couple other points of interest which helped w/ logistics planning the next day.

Whole family woke up at 10:30AM. Whoops! Jet lag and/or midnight sun to blame probably. Disorienting, especially when camping in a tent. Drove to Husavik on the N coast - not a short drive - but enjoyed stopping at small towns along the way, Kirkjufell mountain, various waterfalls, and other misc. roadside hikes and interpretive spots. Learned that Iceland has the largest per capita energy production (hydroelectric and geothermal) of any country in the world and double of country #2 (Norway).

Pack up camp, attempt to find Esbit tablets (fail - none in Iceland! Boo. Will just rely on isobutane), then hit Whales of Iceland museum in Reykjavik. Kids loved it. Headed out of town to Snaefellsjokull National Park. Lots of oohing and ahhing during the drive - a recurring theme - really incredible terrain. Stopped for hikes: Lord of the Rings-ish waterfall, sea cliffs/sea birds, black sand beach w/ huge waves, lava/tidepools, lighthouse.

Drove out of NP to camp in Hellisander. Interesting lava features around our campsite provided needed protection from the wind, but we still had a wonderful view of the ocean.

Day 1 of Iceland adventure! 10:40PM Sunday flight out of STL was delayed and due to plane change and headwinds, had to stop in Toronto to re-fuel and that took for-ev-er. Didn't get in to Reykjavik until around 1:30PM Mon. Got car (small Hyundai SUV that they upgraded to auto tranny and 4WD for some reason - not complaining!), groceries, and the most expensive Subway lunch ever (expected) and headed to Reykjavik Campsite. Totally delightful camping set-up right in the middle of the city within a greenbelt area.

After getting tent, etc set up, daughter and I walked next door to swim at the largest geothermal pool in the city. 50F-ish air temps but wonderful warm, steamy, crystal clear pool waters. Most excellent. Sun still shining at 10PM.

C • so cool!! 3