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Training Log Archive: philm64

In the 1 days ending Dec 2, 2016:


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Fr

Friday Dec 2, 2016 #

Note
(injured)

Indoor climbing at TCA with Liz, Nellie, Lynne, & Jenny.

Properly bang on it today, was on cracking form. that's what 2 days off results in? One move I did today was definitely UK 6a - just latched it, no way is that 5c. This means that technically I am as good as ever (2012). But can I turn it into route climbing?

How good's that? This good (March 2012). https://youtu.be/h_hJKcXqmfE (nb. Adam Ondra does 9a on Yosemite twice in one day; this is only 7a) - the UK 6a crux move is at 1:35 - 1:50. Took me 3 visits & about 8 goes to nail it. . . . . this route remains my only 7a (E4 6a in English money) & probably my only 6a move mid route. (think it looks easy? it's overhanging the whole way - not vertical.....)

the past 3-5 weeks of regular bouldering is paying off. Now burning the ladies off. Normally, I'm the crappest. But I weigh seemingly nothing, and my fingers are now strong. and I'm cutting loose and core strength is being used & improving. Yay.

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