Training Log Archive: Runner99

Half a lap and then some boulders, should have done more, super tired though. Note: take boulders from Jelisa and flash them. When I was doing the last one a slabby little bugger, everything was easy up until the finish on the volcano, I will figure it out.

C • The dictionary didn't help 8

(Pinch Laps on system wall, square feet) x 3 - [1, 1/2, 1]
(Open handed crimp laps system wall, square feet) x 3 - [8m, 6m, 7m]
Hanging:
pinches - [25s, 25s, 25s]
ball slopers - [21s, 19s, 22s]
cut slopers - [15s, 12s, 18s]
crimps - [14s@14, 14s@16, 13@16]

3rd in my category - Youth A:
https://www.facebook.com/RockJungleFitness/photos/...

General Analysis:

Much better than last weekend. That is the first thought that comes to my mind. Next, I will summarize, and then nit-pick through the things that I still did poorly, or could be better.

Tried warming up before the comp started, could have done a better job with that. As soon as the music started I jumped on 30, surprisingly hard and shut me down partway through due to an elusive sequence. Then warmed up on 20, and 23, and drifted over to 38 which looked like a very potential candidate that I could climb. After seeing 5ish people send it I executed the correct sequence on my second attempt. Next I decided that I would crush the overhanging routes, 34 and 36. 34 was a giveaway, flashed it. 36 was pretty easy other than the finish which I messed up sequentially the first time I went at it. Got it the second time. Thinking back, I should have tried 39 until I sent it because I thought that it was doable, and I didn't get to try it even once during the comp, because I was put off by the line-up. (Note: don't be intimidated by line ups too much) I stopped by 41 to try it out, due to the short line, possibly should have stayed there until I got it the way Matt did.
Went down to 40, first move was too hard gave up shortly. Tried 31, took me a number of attempts before I got it, twas a challenging route. Stayed away from 35, potentially might have sent it; I guess we will never know. Never saw 44, or tried it, maybe I should have, as I possibly could have sent it.
After 31 I went back up to look at 33, 39, and 41. There was a big line-up and so I fell once on 33, and then got it the next time, and thought that I only had 5 routes (I forgot about 30) and so I quickly sent 29, which was an easy mantle. Then I got one attempt on 41, and I did get to the sloper, but standing there, my feet were precariously slipping and I didn't really know what to do about it; a toe hook might have helped. Then we timed out, and I didn't get another chance.

Solution Analysis:

On this comp I could have only done a small number of things better. I could have tried to get my problems faster through transitioning between them, and compiling information such as sequences from other people more effectively. Which then ties into my next point, that I could have flashed a couple route instead of getting them on my 2nd attempt, adding a lot more point to my score, by getting the correct sequence faster.

Success analysis:

I did a great number of things much better than I have done in the past. First I was able to get a feel for how hard the problems were, and I was able to get a large number of my problems around this level, although with better tactics, I feel that I hadn't yet matched my full potential physical level. I got 6 relatively consistent problems. Next I was able to get a large amount of beta from peers and other climbers/coaches which I then executed effectively.

Goal statement:

My goals for the future are:

a) to get stronger/better overall; because that is my greatest weakness
b) try slightly harder problems next time, and stick with them for slightly longer
c) acquire beta faster and more effectively

The usual.

1 min dime edges systems x 3
Around the world bumps x 3
Campus board offset pullups big rungs wide x 3
ring rocks (10)x3
max scrap push ups x 3