Training Log Archive: Runner99In the 7 days ending Jan 18, 2016:
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Monday Jan 18, 2016 #
Running 45:00 [4] 6.0 km (7:30 / km) +240m 6:15 / km
Intervals
[jog 100m, climb 20m stairs, run down 20m slope,
jog 125m, climb 20m slope, run down 20m stairs x9
3 laps cool down.
[jog 100m, climb 20m stairs, run down 20m slope,
jog 125m, climb 20m slope, run down 20m stairs x9
3 laps cool down.
Sunday Jan 17, 2016 #
Bouldering race (Provincials Finals) 15:00 [5]
Pity they only had 3 problems. Doesn't leave a lot of leeway for diversity.
Warmed up perfectly. Felt psyched. Kept my cool in the chair.
1- Came up to it. Beginning; easy enough. Top - I'll figure it out when I get there. Rocked over up to the bonus with no problems, then analyzed the sloper on my left and the triple crimps on my right, and concluded they want me to get up onto the feature at my navel. Sadly, due to video analysis available for this particular problem, I have to say I excessively took my dear sweet time to do the move. Once I did it, I weighted myself over to the side, and onsighted my first problem.
2- Second problem; I thought the moves through (I peeked at Hunter's scorecard that he kind of left right side up, and knew that he had spent 5-6 attempts and not gotten the bonus) and thought that they were easy enough. From the bonus you had a home run to the finish. The knack was sticking the bonus, a relatively good hold, that was able to scream out and wave my weak grip/1-arm strength in my face, as I tried multiple times to stick it with just my right hand. Next, I resolved to trying a heel hook. I was using 41 and 1/2 Solutions today, so if you recall my last post, a combination of my ineptness at pulling with my toe, and not being used to the hard shape of the Solution's heel, lead me to make no progress whatsoever. The only positive aspect of my failure there, was that I found out and tried both possible sequences, indicating that my sequencing is still adequate (arguably one of my strong suits).
3- The crowd let me know that Hunter had sent it, which gave me confidence that it shouldn't be an issue for me, as it was in a sort of corner on a flat wall; meaning not as much pulling, and more balancing. When I got to it, my first impression was that it must be a jump (which turned out to be the most economical solution) but as I climbed into it, I leaned towards my static side, lacking confidence in my jumping abilities; for every attempt counted. The first attempt, I tried pulling up the undercling sloper, which frankly was a stupid idea. On the second attempt I tried to jump into it, catching myself on the sloper undercling. Also a stupid idea. On my 3rd attempt, I decided to resort to stemming, and I was able to press myself between the wall and the undercling sloper, in order to put my right foot high onto the feature, which would then allow me to go and rock over and pull myself to the jug.
[ Note: This (and flashing the first problem) was probably the highlight of my comp. I did that move statically, meaning that had there not been a jug after that, nearly none of the other boys would have been able to do that move, because they all did it by jumping. Jumping is fine and dandy when it is necessary, but if you miss, you lose an attempt, therefore I find it to be more risky. On the other hand, my dynamic abilities are sub-average which may stem the foundation of my doubt. Though more importantly if there is nothing to jump to, then it is dead end beta. Which then puts our ability to discern the difference between which of the two is correct, in the 4-5min we have, in the spotlight showing how much of a crucial aspect of competing that alone is. In this case both techniques worked, yet had there not been a jug, only one would have worked, and had there not been the extra sloper allowing me to stem, then the static one wouldn't have worked. ]
To finish it, all I did was stand up, and get my left hand on the finish, then bring my right foot up to heel hook the bottom of the sloper beside me. This stabilized me and allowed me to finish the problem.
In conclusion, I am very happy with my performance. I couldn't have done anything better in the comp, and I was able to find and analyze my strong and weak aspects of climbing.
Most importantly, I had a tremendous amount of fun, doing what I love. :)
https://compseason.com/results.php?comp=15&cat...
http://gripped.com/news/results-from-alberta-provi...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/118341495@N05/albums...
Warmed up perfectly. Felt psyched. Kept my cool in the chair.
1- Came up to it. Beginning; easy enough. Top - I'll figure it out when I get there. Rocked over up to the bonus with no problems, then analyzed the sloper on my left and the triple crimps on my right, and concluded they want me to get up onto the feature at my navel. Sadly, due to video analysis available for this particular problem, I have to say I excessively took my dear sweet time to do the move. Once I did it, I weighted myself over to the side, and onsighted my first problem.
2- Second problem; I thought the moves through (I peeked at Hunter's scorecard that he kind of left right side up, and knew that he had spent 5-6 attempts and not gotten the bonus) and thought that they were easy enough. From the bonus you had a home run to the finish. The knack was sticking the bonus, a relatively good hold, that was able to scream out and wave my weak grip/1-arm strength in my face, as I tried multiple times to stick it with just my right hand. Next, I resolved to trying a heel hook. I was using 41 and 1/2 Solutions today, so if you recall my last post, a combination of my ineptness at pulling with my toe, and not being used to the hard shape of the Solution's heel, lead me to make no progress whatsoever. The only positive aspect of my failure there, was that I found out and tried both possible sequences, indicating that my sequencing is still adequate (arguably one of my strong suits).
3- The crowd let me know that Hunter had sent it, which gave me confidence that it shouldn't be an issue for me, as it was in a sort of corner on a flat wall; meaning not as much pulling, and more balancing. When I got to it, my first impression was that it must be a jump (which turned out to be the most economical solution) but as I climbed into it, I leaned towards my static side, lacking confidence in my jumping abilities; for every attempt counted. The first attempt, I tried pulling up the undercling sloper, which frankly was a stupid idea. On the second attempt I tried to jump into it, catching myself on the sloper undercling. Also a stupid idea. On my 3rd attempt, I decided to resort to stemming, and I was able to press myself between the wall and the undercling sloper, in order to put my right foot high onto the feature, which would then allow me to go and rock over and pull myself to the jug.
[ Note: This (and flashing the first problem) was probably the highlight of my comp. I did that move statically, meaning that had there not been a jug after that, nearly none of the other boys would have been able to do that move, because they all did it by jumping. Jumping is fine and dandy when it is necessary, but if you miss, you lose an attempt, therefore I find it to be more risky. On the other hand, my dynamic abilities are sub-average which may stem the foundation of my doubt. Though more importantly if there is nothing to jump to, then it is dead end beta. Which then puts our ability to discern the difference between which of the two is correct, in the 4-5min we have, in the spotlight showing how much of a crucial aspect of competing that alone is. In this case both techniques worked, yet had there not been a jug, only one would have worked, and had there not been the extra sloper allowing me to stem, then the static one wouldn't have worked. ]
To finish it, all I did was stand up, and get my left hand on the finish, then bring my right foot up to heel hook the bottom of the sloper beside me. This stabilized me and allowed me to finish the problem.
In conclusion, I am very happy with my performance. I couldn't have done anything better in the comp, and I was able to find and analyze my strong and weak aspects of climbing.
Most importantly, I had a tremendous amount of fun, doing what I love. :)
https://compseason.com/results.php?comp=15&cat...
http://gripped.com/news/results-from-alberta-provi...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/118341495@N05/albums...
Saturday Jan 16, 2016 #
Bouldering race (Provincials Qualifiers) 25:00 [4]
Warmed up well.
Felt relatively shaky up in the chair, due to lack of comp experience. Second time doing a legitimate 5 on 5 off.
1- felt shaky and unfluid., though each attempt after got better. Had an easy time getting to the bonus (1st attempt), then couldn`t get much further on my following 2 attempts. Thought of trying to break the sequence, but it wouldn't have worked anyways. Couldn't have done anything better on that one.
2- Saw it was again easy to the bonus, and got to it on my first attempt, but then went back to try and get past it differently and fell. On my second attempt I climbed past it, and had the right sequence but couldn't execute it. After I fell the judge kindly informed me that I still didn't have the bonus with 1:30 left, which then made me freak out slightly. I calmly made my final attempt just to get the bonus, but alas I was very pumped as the moves were relatively hard, therefore I didn't make it.
3- Straightforward sequence; got the bonus on my 1st attempt. But after that I couldn't rock over the foothold with my toe, leaving unable to make any more progress. The closest I got was with a heel which subsequently left me trapped. Conclusion of that was, my Testarossas are good for heelhooks; the heel is soft and molds nicely into oddly shaped holds. But they are terrible for toeing in any way on small edges. That was amended the next day.
4- Made 4-5 attempts, pumpy little bugger. Needed to campus to the bonus, and from there it should have been a top. Didn't make it to the bonus, as I didn't cup the key hold. I slightly doubt that I had the grip strength to campus it even if I did use the correct grip position.
5- My favorite one, and probably my greatest achievement. Very odd start that gave me an instant impression that didn't make sense at first, therefore I tried the wrong sequence (about 5 grades harder than the correct one) for about 3:30, before I came back to my first impression, which was starting on the highest hold with your right hand to avoid matching. On my first attempt I got to the knee bar just under the bonus, but unfortunately flagged out of black tape. In my last attempt I fell as I was readjusting the kneebar, I probably should have just tried to reach for the hold.
Learned overall that:
-in routes or bouldering, on the bonus, YOU MUST SHOW what feels like EXAGURATTED MOVEMENT for them to give it to you, or to be able to argue that you had it.
-In my Testerossas, I can do, very good heelhooks; but not any toeing into small holds, in contrast with my Solutions that can toe into tiny stuff, but I forgot how to heelhook with them.
-If you are close to a bonus, don`t fiddle around; just grab it
Finished in 4rth place (because they didn't give me that bonus) though I should have been in 2nd.
0T0 2B2 ----> (0T0 3B3)
Felt relatively shaky up in the chair, due to lack of comp experience. Second time doing a legitimate 5 on 5 off.
1- felt shaky and unfluid., though each attempt after got better. Had an easy time getting to the bonus (1st attempt), then couldn`t get much further on my following 2 attempts. Thought of trying to break the sequence, but it wouldn't have worked anyways. Couldn't have done anything better on that one.
2- Saw it was again easy to the bonus, and got to it on my first attempt, but then went back to try and get past it differently and fell. On my second attempt I climbed past it, and had the right sequence but couldn't execute it. After I fell the judge kindly informed me that I still didn't have the bonus with 1:30 left, which then made me freak out slightly. I calmly made my final attempt just to get the bonus, but alas I was very pumped as the moves were relatively hard, therefore I didn't make it.
3- Straightforward sequence; got the bonus on my 1st attempt. But after that I couldn't rock over the foothold with my toe, leaving unable to make any more progress. The closest I got was with a heel which subsequently left me trapped. Conclusion of that was, my Testarossas are good for heelhooks; the heel is soft and molds nicely into oddly shaped holds. But they are terrible for toeing in any way on small edges. That was amended the next day.
4- Made 4-5 attempts, pumpy little bugger. Needed to campus to the bonus, and from there it should have been a top. Didn't make it to the bonus, as I didn't cup the key hold. I slightly doubt that I had the grip strength to campus it even if I did use the correct grip position.
5- My favorite one, and probably my greatest achievement. Very odd start that gave me an instant impression that didn't make sense at first, therefore I tried the wrong sequence (about 5 grades harder than the correct one) for about 3:30, before I came back to my first impression, which was starting on the highest hold with your right hand to avoid matching. On my first attempt I got to the knee bar just under the bonus, but unfortunately flagged out of black tape. In my last attempt I fell as I was readjusting the kneebar, I probably should have just tried to reach for the hold.
Learned overall that:
-in routes or bouldering, on the bonus, YOU MUST SHOW what feels like EXAGURATTED MOVEMENT for them to give it to you, or to be able to argue that you had it.
-In my Testerossas, I can do, very good heelhooks; but not any toeing into small holds, in contrast with my Solutions that can toe into tiny stuff, but I forgot how to heelhook with them.
-If you are close to a bonus, don`t fiddle around; just grab it
Finished in 4rth place (because they didn't give me that bonus) though I should have been in 2nd.
0T0 2B2 ----> (0T0 3B3)
Thursday Jan 14, 2016 #
Bouldering 30:00 [4]
Just getting into the flow again. Topped 2 of last practices boulders.
Tuesday Jan 12, 2016 #
Bouldering 45:00 [2]
slept:5.0
Barely got up. After warming up we did a mock comp where I pretty much simulated the worst possible scenario that could happen. I didn't top a single boulder though I was close on one. I need to rest and recover so that on Thursday, I can feel good and retry those boulders.