Walking 2:00:00  5.0 km (24:00 / km)
From the Daimonzaka bus stop up to the Kumano Nachi Taisha, then a wander around the temple, the temple next door (Seiganto-ji), up to the top of the three-storied pagoda, down to the foot of the Nachi Falls (the highest in Japan), and back down again. This completes the pilgrimage, although we have two more walks planned for tomorrow.
The falls are a great sight, particularly with the pagoda in the view. At the start of the hundreds of steps up the Daimonzaka are two 800 year old cedar trees (dubbed husband and wife). In the temple grounds is an 800 year old camphor tree, and around the pagoda were many manicured pine and deciduous trees that the gardeners were carefully pruning while we were there. PP managed to buy all her family their Xmas gifts from monks at the temple shop.
Back in Kii-Katsuura we bought cakes from a bakery and consumed them by the tuna fishing boat harbour. The tuna market unfortunately closed on Tuesdays, but there is a sculpture commemorating the biggest tuna caught on a line - 2.5m long and 450kg.
Back at the hotel we had an outdoor onsen - just incredible to be in a hot bath right next to the ocean with views to islands across the bay, mountains behind, and eagles soaring on updrafts right above. A silver airliner also came across the sky, very high up, while I was lying in the hot water. After getting out a cool breeze dried me off.
Dinner was pretty good too. Selection of chopped and marinated raw fish, then sashimi and salad, then sauteed scallops, then wagyu, mushroom and asparagus grilled at the table, and a fantastic dessert.