mountain biking 7:31:00 [3] *** 86.76 km (5:12 / km) +1700m 4:44 / km
Huādiànba epic with La. Epic. Took the Ěryuán bus about an hour north to a place called Dèngchuān which is just under 2000m, I think. We didn't start well, as I noticed my tyre had a split sidewall and the tube was spilling out -- not impressed, I bought some strapping tape and taped up the inside of the tyre to keep the tube from herniating...and hoped for the best. From there, we headed north along little cobbled roads through terraced farmland and little Bai villages seeking out a small road to a mountain village called Lapíng. My knowledge was scant, but people were friendly and helpful, and mostly amused-cum-horrified at what we were doing.. 'not able to', 'too far', 'too late' 'too steep.' Not the kind of confidence you need when starting out on something you are well-aware might be pushing the realm of what is possible in a day. After a few back-tracks due to the great marshland, we finally found an old road that wound around and eventually started a steady climb up to Lapíng. We made pretty good time and aside from the odd tuōlājī, we had the road to ourselves and the wind. We arrived in Lapíng, and although we both agreed it, with its ancient mud brick houses and flagstone alleys, deserved some time, knew we were pressed and continued on up. We did get some of the most comforting advice from a little old lady who only spoke Bai, and translated through her husband, seemed to think we were ok - 'the grassland on top is short grass, not tall grass' and if I could translate her expression said 'good on ya.' As Lara said, "she probably carried a stack of firewood back from there yesterday." From Lapíng we continued up through the red earth fields and pine-oak forest and scrub until the road deteriorated into a rough horse track. The sections of ridable track became less and less, and those that were ridable were for us, technical and exhausting. Alas, we eventually crossed a small pass and saw one of the two features I wanted to see -- a huge limestone depression, near 1.5km across and 100-300m deep -- completely cut off from the world. In the bottom, we could see the speck figures of farmers and huge cattlebeast ploughing fields, horses, yaks, and a dozen small crop fires smouldering. It could have been a scene from a thousand years ago in the same place. Unfortunately, we were still conscious of the time, and continued to climb, at this point mostly carrying the bikes up the rocky track to a small pass at 3225m. Here, I checked out a few possible routes and we elected to go a way I thought might have some ridability, though it meant a slight navigational challenge -- ie no map. We headed up through the lovely yak meadows, until we came to the highest pass at about 3350m. At this point, there was a steep to undulating grazed grassland with intermittent scrub, and thankfully ridable livestock tracks, not unlike near Alexandra. Eventually, we came to the rim of the second depression -- this one was only 150m deep, but spanned more than 5km across. In the distance, we could see great herds of yaks and long-haired goats. Unfortunately, I had missed the track I had wanted to use to drop down into the crater, so we had to carry the bikes most of the way down a rocky slope. Rode across the great grassland -- this felt just like coming off the Rock and Pillar Range onto Mt Ross station, less the tors -- and climbed back up to a track on the other side. Here, we elected for the shorter of two routes based on time (and a hunch on ridability), though it meant missing out what looks like some awesome tarns and another huge sinkhole - basin... another time. Unfortunately, the first section of 'down' track was unridable anyway, and we, now truly stuffed, dragged the bikes down through the jagged limestone boulders and pines to a series of more reasonablly-sized depressions that had nice (some amazing) tracks that lead us to Huādiànba. We arrived at just past six.
Bearing in mind, there is a guest house there, the executive decision was made that with an hour of workable light, we should push on. I didn't argue. But what we had both miscalculated was the ridablility of the 7k down the valley - surely it would be a road of sorts, though should we have given it some thought, we would have recognised that without vehicle access, the 'road' was merely a widened horse track. At one time, it was hardened as a great cobbled road, but like lost roman roads over the alps, this one had long deteriorated into a huge jumble of boulders. With the ever increasing wind, it was not unlike riding up the Godley in a Norwester'. Do-able, but lacking any grace whatsoever.
Eventually, it did get dark and with torches on we eventually walked our bikes down the final short section of steep horse track and then dropped about 700m on a widened tuōlājī track -- much too tired to really enjoy it, but relieved to be at the bottom.
The last 20k back would have been uneventful except for the fact that the road workers have strewn bowling-ball sized boulders over the side of the road to keep trucks from using it. This meant that when confronted with oncoming traffic with its high beams on, riding at speed was a sort of game of roulette - a game which we were clearly not very good at.... Stopped for a pizza and a beer in town, making the final 200m climb much more pleasant.
A 12 hour day, in total. I suspect a good hour or so of shouldering the bike weren't recorded on the odo/chrono....but got a few 'free' downhills.