tramping 1:30:00 [1]
Down the hill to the Nujiang -- This became a little bit of an epic to get home in time to catch the middle final. At the top of the hill, one of the guides suggested I could make it back tonight and offered a ride from his place to the main road -- the only catch was 1) we had to drag some bamboo poles (in additonal to our packs) to his house and so I knew 2) there would be cursory tea drinking and second lunch at his place. So, I gladly accepted the abridged trek in the now sweltering humidity for a dizzying-fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants-bumpy-as-hell motocycle lift with two other sweaty guys and one filthy 20kg pack down a muddy mountain track.
Despite the bamboo loading, we made it to his place in good time. We did, as expected, have the cursory tea drinking at his house -- I happily ripped through an assortment of walnuts, chestnuts, persimmons, pommegranites, and two top-ups of scalding tea before checking my watch and quietly suggesting we go - they were in instant action.
We all hopped on -- me in the middle; Zhu wore my pack. I was so jammed in between them that I could only see off the right side of the driver, so that every left swinging hairpin was a dizzying pan of either the mountain or nothing (this is begining to sound suspiciously like an Arlo Guthrie song...) This was only made more exciting when we met 'traffic', such as a herd of water buffalo, a landslide, or overtook a slower motorcycle. Anyway, we made it down the muddy track to the road and the bus stop without incident and with at least a few moments to spare -- at least enough time to mix with the old guys that always sit at bus stops but have never left town.
Hopped on the local to Baoshan. It all seemed to be going smoothly - like I might just make it to Baoshan in time to catch the last bus to Xiaguan, but then we crossed the Nujiang and we pulled up to a Military Police check point.
It didn't look good, even from the start.
With no less than 30 overly eager military police to witness, I was singled out and taken off the bus -- questioned -- questioned more -- I calmy explained who I was and what I was doing here. He looked decidely unimpressed. I started to think about the contraband I have: maps, gps, notes -- for god's sake I have notes. There was an x-ray machine, and steel table, and what looked like a hospital bed (you can imagine what goes on there). I looked around at their incredulous stares, fatigues and red bands and started getting Deer Hunter flashbacks. The head-honcho sat at the lone desk, under a humming ceiling fan impatiently flipping through my passport as if there something was missing. He looked frustrated, and kept repeating questions, most of which I didn't understand. It all grew quite tense. Finally, in desperation, I pulled my library card out of my wallett -- I don't know if he found humour in it or what, but he was instantly diffused -- turned and wrote down some notes and told me I was finished.
I'm guessing that may have been the closest I've come to a cavity search -- I got back on the bus, relieved. Got to Baoshan, hopped in a cab to the main bus station and made the connection to Xiaguan with less than 5 minutes, and then caught the late night local bus back to Dali -- marched up the hill home just before the first starts... Long day.