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Training Archive: stone

In the 31 days ending 2007-01-31:

activity # timemileskmclimb
  Running16 36:25:00 4.97 8.0 7000
  Cycling2 3:00:00
  Skiing2 2:00:00
  Running Intervall2 33:00 3.11 5.0 600
  Total22 41:58:00 8.08 13.0 7600
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Wednesday Jan 31

Running (Hiking) 3:00:00 [1]
walking along the Carretera for 15km to the next camp site. Was glad to get there after a while... too many flies and other insects, and 25-30kg on your back doesn't make you feel better.
Went up to some other water falls in the evening.

Tuesday Jan 30

Running (Hiking) 1:20:00 [2]
I'm in the Parque Pumalin now. This is the largest private nature park in the world. US-American Douglas Tompkins, former owner of the clothing brand 'Esprit', has been buying land down here since the 90s and created a really nice park here with lots of nice trails and camp sites. The park is huge, probably about half the size of Switzerland. Reminds me a bit of Ticino here, only that everything is 1000 times bigger and the forests are real jungles (rainforests).
Walked/ran up to some hidden waterfalls, really impressive!
This region here is the beginning of the famous 'Carretera Austral', a 1200km long gravel road, the only road they have here. It's just pure wilderness here.

Sunday Jan 28

Note
spending the weekend on the island of Chiloe. Beautiful!

Saturday Jan 27

Note
spending the weekend on the island of Chiloe. Beautiful!

Wednesday Jan 24

Note
heading off to the south of Chile. Took a night bus from Santiago to Valdivia.

Tuesday Jan 23

Running Intervall 18:00 [5]5 km (3:36 / km) +300m 2:46 / km
8x(1-2') up to Cerro San Cristobal, this time taking the flatter but longer road. Felt rather heavy, probably the heat, or maybe it's because I have to carry around so many red blood cells right now ;-) In the end, some short but easy sprints to bring some speed into the legs. Felt good.
Overall, about 5min faster for the whole loop than in the beginning of December, so I guess I can't complain.
C • hola senor 4
Running 40:00 [3]8 km (5:00 / km)

Saturday Jan 20

Running 1:00:00 [1]+400m
Day 11
Walking back to where the bus will pick us up. Bus is 4hrs late, because our guide couldnt organize it correctly. Oh man, Im looking forward to a shower and something to eat with lots of fat! And Im glad to be back in the heat of Santiago.
Vlad can walk now by himself, but more like hes drunk.

The past 11 days have been a really interesting experience for me! It was something totally new, but this way I wont do it again, the group was too big and heterogeneous. And I will do it with Europeans next time, or at least people where I know that they will act responsibly in these mountains. Its not a Sunday afternoon picknick, youre some days away from civilization, and if something happens, youre on your own.

Some lessons learned:

1. The high altitude is a place not made for mankind. Or at least Im not made for this place. Even though I had less problems that last time, I would need more time to acclimate to climb a 6500m high mountain. Every day, we could measure our blood saturation. It was always rather low, compared to other people. This fits with the results from the altitude training camp in the Engadin 4 years ago, where my blood did not respond much. Also on this expedition, there were guys with beer bellies or taking cigarette breaks every hour, walking at least twice as slow as me, but if not for the bad weather, they would have made it to the top, whereas I would not have, at least in the given time.

2. Mountaineering is about patience and not power or speed. For a high mountain, you spend sooo much time just hanging or walking around to acclimate. You have different camps, one day you just walk up to carry some material, then the next day you do the same thing again. And maybe a third time the day after. To me, this is boring. I want to run up the mountain and then go back home.

3. Expeditions to higher mountains are long. 10 days is the minimum for smth 6500+. This means sleeping in the tent for 10 days, being cold often, not having a shower, etc. I can think of more pleasant things.

4. You need a lot of food in 10 days!! If you have mulas, take as much as you can, and especially stuff that you like, not just stuff with good nutritional value. Your mind will thank you. I heard of Erhard Loretan, a swiss climber, that he once took 12kg of cheese and 12kg of meat with him on a 1-month expedition in the Himalaya. I understand why now.

5. Dont try to save money when it comes to equipment. Always be prepared for the worst. It can get pretty cold and windy up there&

6. In those 10 days and also in the weeks before, Ive had a lot of time to think. Ive experienced so many new things now, and I wouldnt want to miss a single one of them. But still I havent found anything that comes even close to the thrill of orienteering at a high level. I have been checking out this seasons schedule a bit more closely in search for possible goals. Im hot for mileage, maps and controls like hardly ever before. The last word has not been spoken yet.

Friday Jan 19

Running 2:30:00 [2]+500m
Day 10
Descending to camp at 2300m. Glad Im getting closer to civilization again. Ran with the lighter backpack most of the way. Great training for the Radys and OMM!
Vlad seems to be getting a bit better. He can pee by himself now.

Thursday Jan 18

Running Intervall 15:00 [5]+300m
During the run, I suddenly feel the urge to run fast, so I did intervals in Emil Zatopek style, all in hiking boots. 30-3, longer ones in the rocks, shorter ones on the few flat parts with good ground. Pushed real hard, felt like my lungs would explode after the first rep, but then I felt quite ok. Felt real good to feel the legs moving fast and the heart pumping hard!
Running 55:00 [3]
Day 9

What a pleasure to get some good sleep!! The weather is awesome today, quite warm, and blue skies.
At some point, I get bored a bit and decide to go for a run, Rocky style with the hiking boots, and across rocks, rivers and pastures. Felt quite good, what a pleasure to move the legs a bit faster and without carrying a heavy backpack!
In the evening, some of the others come back. They tell me that they could not go to the summit due to very strong winds, even in the sunny weather. So I hadnt missed anything in the past days, and Im glad I used my head and was reasonable enough to descend. I dont even want to think about being trapped at 5800m with altitude sickness. They also tell me that Vladimir is in really bad condition, they wouldnt be surprised if hed die, and that theyre trying to get him down somehow. I hear that the guides could have had the chance to order a helicopter in the morning, when the weather was fine, but due to (bad) publicity and probably financial reasons, decided to get him down on a mula. Hearing all this, I lose the last bit of respect and trust for the so-called experts here. Vladimir finally reaches the camp 3300m on a mula. A scary sight, like a bag of potatoes, he cannot move a single muscle, has no strength or whatsoever left. At least hes conscious. Some people of the expedition decided that they will stay for some more days at 4500 or 5200 to give it another try when the weather gets better. Dont ask me about food or of the condition some people were in when I last saw them. I dont want to know. And as of now, I dont know if they reached the summit or not.
In the meantime, another expedition has reached the camp. It consists of a mountain guide from Zermatt with two guys from Zurich, about 60, both of them doctors with pretty big bank accounts who have decided to find a new challenge in their life. They have employed 5 people for cooking, putting up tents, etc.!! They have the same amount of material and mulas for 8 people as we have for 30! But then again, we only paid a fraction of the money that they paid& this is a different kind of mountaineering, kind of decadent, but on the other hand, I think its kind of cool, there are more stupid things you can do with your money. They invite us to their big tent and serve some of the finest Lindt&Spruengli pralines, Emmentaler cheese and some really good wine :-) Thats the way to carry a good (and sort of stereotypical ;-)) image of Switzerland into the world :-)
One of the doctors takes a closer look at Vladimir and says that hes got a light pulmonary and cerebral edema, something that can kill you if you dont go down to lower altitudes below 4000m fast enough. Luckily, hes out of critical condition now, but nonetheless, the doc strongly recommends ordering a helicopter in the morning to get him to a hospital. The guides will decide not to do that. I dont know about long-term damage to the brain all this can cause, but once again I find it absolutely irresponsible to act like this. Later I hear that it was not the first time that Vlad had serious problems with the altitude, so it seems that some people just never learn, and my pity towards him decreases somewhat as well.
At night, we see a huge comet in the sky! Never seen anything like it, crystal clear, with its tail and everything. I didnt even know it would be around now and in the coming days. Its a pity my camera is too cheap to take good pictures at night.

view from the tent in the morning: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...

Wednesday Jan 17

Running 2:00:00 [1]
Day 8

After 5 nights with very little sleep and being cold often, I decide to descend to the camp at 3300m, where my own tent is waiting. I just hope that it survived the storm, as it is not really mountain approved. The skies have cleared up in the morning, so I assume that the others will ascend to the summit now after an additional night at 5800m. In the evening, the next storm follows. This kind of weather is very unusual at this time of year, usually its always nice even in the mountains.

Tuesday Jan 16

Note
Day 7

I was able to sleep in the Austrian's tent at 4500m (they have two tents and are still at 5200), and when I wake up in the morning there is a snowstorm raging outside my tent. This is the first time Im real glad not to be at 5800m now! Its twice as cold, and three times as windy up there, and if youve got problems with the altitude, youre in real deep shit, because you cannot descend now. Im a bit worried about some people up there now that already seemed weak before.
Another expedition from Italy has come up to the camp at 4500m in the meantime. They are much better equipped, they even have a big, warm and stable tent where everybody can eat and hang out. And besides that, a Chilean girl that cooks for them. In the evening, they invite me and the two Brazilians for dinner. And we did not expect too much: for the Italians, food, especially pasta, is the most important thing even up in a real cold mountain, in the middle of nowhere. So we were served some very fine pasta con formaggio e pesto! I was also glad to be in that tent, because outside thunderstorms had been raging for half the day, which in my opinion is not so comfortable to be in a tent then. Its actually the first time Ive experienced thunder and lightning in a snowstorm.
The Brazilian girls tent seems to be very cold and leaking snow, so they ask me if they can spend the night with me in my tent& I guess a man cannot say no to that kind of request ;-) Well, at least it was warm, but I wouldnt say that I slept much and that it was very comfortable, but Im sure not many men can say that they spent a night with two brazilian girls in a 2-person tent :-)

snow: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...
italianos: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...

Monday Jan 15

Running 2:00:00 [2]+700m
Day 6
Whoah, this was not a good night. F&ing cold, and at most 2h of sleep (of 12h lying in the tent). If you can sleep, after some minutes you wake up, gasping for breath. Or you turn around once, or try to adjust your sleeping bag, and you will need some minutes to recover from this effort. Real scary.
In the morning, besides not having slept, I feel fine, the pressure in the head is gone, but I still feel quite exhausted. It takes me more than an hour to pack my backpack. But the interesting thing is, Im not even last, everybody in the camp seems to go in slow-motion. Vladimir supposedly is feeling better now, probably he just threw in another aspirin or two (or some stronger stuff, I dont know). Somehow, I dont feel comfortable about this, especially when we pass him on the way up, he (and some other people as well) are walking at max. 1km/h (I didnt think its possible to walk so slow, but it is). But then again, its not the gringos job to look for people, there are guides and everybody should be somewhat reasonable themselves.
Ascending to 5800m, we walk on the border between Chile and Argentina. You can even see the argentinian pampa, some 5000m below, in the distance. I decide to take it real slow today, not to force at all. HR is around 100, and breathing seems real easy. But still, the headache becomes stronger and stronger, and at 5600m I decide that I will not spend a night at 5800m. I ascend to the camp, because my partner and I have to split up and I have to find a tent to sleep at one of the lower camps. Some other people, among them two brazilian girls, have descended as well. The summit seems sooo close, which makes it hard to go down again, but the headache is real strong now, and I have to descend as soon as possible.
The two Austrians went up to 6000 today just for practice. On the way, they picked up some argentinian who was on the summit, but lost his two partners in the fog. The guy could hardly walk, and seemed to be lacking some oxygen in his brain. The Austrians bring him down to his camp at 5400m, where eventually the other two argentinians also came back to. Without the Austrians, the guy would probably be dead now. These people just have no idea about mountaineering and the dangers in these mountains. So far, the weather has been good, but in bad weather people such as these will be crushed by nature like an elephant will crush an chickens egg. More scaringly, our guides didnt seem to give a shit when the Austrians brought the other guy. It was like, oh, yeah the guy got lost, but now everythings fine, the Austrians will take care of everything.
Vladimir eventually makes it up the the camp, but I can only sense his condition there. I have descended down to 4500m. For me, making the summit on this expedition has gotten out of reach, as I would need two more days of acclimatation at lower altitudes. So I expect to spend some easy days at 4500m, enjoying the sun and great view, and waiting for the others to come back.

Sunday Jan 14

Running 2:30:00 [2]+800m
Day 5

After another freezing night (my sleeping bag isnt really made for these conditions, and two silk inlets are just barely enough to increase the temperature to adequate ranges), we ascend to 5200m, this time along the path, thanks to the tips of the Austrians. Actually, this is one of the huge differences between mountaineering in the Alps and here: the lack of (useful) maps. There are no maps, and either you have a guide who knows what hes doing and knows the mountain, or you just have to try to find the way. This is not dangerous though, as there are hardly any cliffs, basically just one REALLY massive pile of gravel and sand.
Up at 5200m, I feel quite exhausted, and have a slight headache. After some hours of rest in the tent, I feel better, but not really good enough (according to my standards) to think of continuing to 5800m the next day, as is planned according to the expeditions program. My blood oxygen saturation is down to 73%, a good value would be 80. Some other Chilean guy, Vladimir, seems to have pretty bad problems already here, headache and not feeling well. I always thought that in this condition, you should go down again, because you cannot really recover at this altitude. But the latin American mind seems to think different also in this respect  lets just see what happens, take an aspirin and then things will be fine&

Saturday Jan 13

Running 3:00:00 [3]+800m
Day 4

Having slept all right, except that the nights up here already get freezing cold, I feel good again ascending to the next camp at 5200m. The plan is to bring up some luggage, then descend to 4500m and spend another night there to get acclimated more. After 5000m, I feel a slight headache, which gets better while I rest, and which disappears completely down at 4500m. Some parts of the climb were quite nasty today, as the Andes are basically just one huge pile of gravel and loose stones. This can be quite a pain when walking up and not having a path (because the guide doesnt know that there is a path a few hundred meters away), you do 2 steps and slide 1 and a half back. In these conditions, 700m up in 3hrs is not that bad ;-)
We also met two Austrians today, who already pitched their tent at 5200m. They seem to be really knowing what theyre doing, and I would have much more trust in them than in our guides&

another massive piece of rock; seeing the Aconcagua in the distance: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...

Friday Jan 12

Running 3:00:00 [3]
Ascent this our base camp at 4500m. It will be the first time I will sleep at this altitude, I wonder how I will react. But when walking with the heavy backpack, I felt strong all the way, seems that I have acclimated better than last time. In the evening, my blood oxygen saturation is at 85%, which means that only 85% of my red blood cells are carrying oxygen molecules. This is ok, although not great. At sea level, it's 98-99%.

at camp 4500: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...

Thursday Jan 11

Running 4:30:00 [2]+1500m
Day 2

6hr hike to the next camp at 3300m, at the foot of the Tupungato. This remoteness of the mountain is the main reason why it is not climbed very often. On Aconcagua (Americas highest mntn, 6950m), there is the base camp at 4300m where you can basically drive to, with cabins, showers, and according to some people even a small red-light district ;-)
We had to cross some rivers along the way, which is admittedly not so easy, if they have a fair amount of water. But again, some people just cant seem to get one leg before the other, someone even fell into the water up to the chest. This is going to require some patience&

crossing rivers: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...
one massive piece of 6570m of rock: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...

Wednesday Jan 10

Note
heading off to 10-day expedition to Tupungato. should be aclimatisated better than last time after spending the last 4 days in the north in the desert, at and altitude of 2500-4000m.
hasta la vista
C • Good luck! 1
Running 1:00:00 [1]+400m
Day 1
Start of the 20-day expedition of the Federacion de Montanismo y Andinismo de Chile. This expedition consists of the ascent of three 6000+ mountains und the region here. First is the Tupungato (6570m), then Juncal (6050) and then Marmolejo (6100, worlds southernmost 6000-peak). I will take part only for Tupungato, as it is the easiest mountain in terms of climbing, and because I want to see some other parts of this huge country later. There are people from various countries taking part: Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Ecuador, Guatemala, Suiza, France.
When I got this offer, I was quite hesitant at first, having never done this kind of thing before, and I was expecting to go out with experts, being members of the Federacion Chilena& but as with many things here, also in mountaineering standards cannot be compared to European ones. I already had this feeling when I met all the people (about 30) on the first day, they really did not look professional, some even brought water melons to the first camp&;-))
After taking a bus that brought us to the middle of some remote valley, and after packing the mulas (donkeys, horses) we hiked for some hours to the first camp at 2300m. And some people looked quite shaky on the small trails& no comparison to the mulas, which can walk in the steepest places with 50kg in their back without any problems!! (Although once in a while one of them falls into a canyon and dies, not on our tour though, but we saw more than one skeleton).

mulas: http://www.denissteinemann.ch/archive/pictures/SA0...

Monday Jan 8

Cycling 1:00:00 [4]
again renting a bike and going out to the desert to view the sunset.

Saturday Jan 6

Cycling 2:00:00 [2]
In the north in the Atacama desert, the driest place on earth. I'm in San Pedro de Atacama, super touristic.

Renting a bike to go out to the desert and visit some nice canyon. After taking several wrong paths due to the horrible map, I finally arrived. Great stuff!
In the evening, wanted to see the famous sunset in the Valle de Luna, but even though I pushed real hard on the 200m uphill, I was a bit too late.

Wednesday Jan 3

Running 2:00:00 [2]
Day 4.

Descending from base camp down to Baños Morales in 5h and heading back to Santiago. Felt perfectly fine today, slept like a rock last night at 3100m...

Even though we did not succeed, it was definitely not a failure! I got to know my body better again, and got some first experiences with higher altitudes. And at least we were higher than th Mont Blanc ;-) Thinking back, it simply cannot work out, going from 500 up to 4200 in 24h and then trying to spend a night there, at least if you're not aclimated enough. I had been up on 3000m the past weekends, but never spent a night there, and that's what really counts in terms of aclimatisation. But I'm quite sure that with an additional night at 3600-3700m before the 4200m camp, all would have worked out fine. We just did what people suggested to us, but the problem here is that as a European who only knows the Alps, you lose the relations a bit. Because 4000m is absolutely nothing here, the temptation to make the mistake and go up too quickly is very large. And back home, 1000m of altitude gain seems like a piece of cake. But at 4000+, and with 15+kg on your back, doing only 300m an hour is not something old grandmothers could do.

I have also gotten a first glimpse of what mountaineering is really about. It is not about speed and power. It's about patience and humbleness towards the nature of the mountain and your body. Maybe this is a reason why most people in this sport are between 30 and 50 ?

In a week, between the 10th and 20th of January, I will take part in an expedition up to Volcan Tupungato, one of the world's highest volcanoes at 6520m. I am confident that with the experience and the additional aclimatisation from the past days, and if the weather gods like us, I will succeed next time.

I will post some pics shortly.

Tuesday Jan 2

Running 3:00:00 [3]+700m
Day 3.

After a cold night with temperatures a lot below 0, I still felt ok. The water in the bottle inside the tent was frozen solid... but I never felt cold, seems that the material is worth the money. We had to melt snow to get drinking water, as outside everything was frozen solid too, of course. Next time, we'll fill up all bottles in the evening, another one of those little details...

We started ascending further, now constantly walking in huge fields of penitentes. These things can become quite large, up to 2m !! As soon as we started climbing, there was that pressure in the head and slight headache again. Hans had to go really slow and had trouble breathing. Nonetheless, we were gaining altitude steadily, but also my headache was increasing steadily again. The strange thing was that in my legs, lungs and heart, I had absolutely no problems! Felt perfectly fine, just the head was not how it should be. We reached camp 2 after about 3h. But I had decided long before that I could not sleep up there as we had planned. Maybe with more drugs it could have been possible, but I want to get to know my real current limits and besides, it can be very dangerous not to listen to the signs of the body. So, we decided that we would go up to 5000m and then descend back down to base camp at 3100m. As the weather was also getting worse with lots of fog, we decided to descend at 4900m. With every meter less, the pressure in my head decreased. Back at camp 1 (4200m), I felt almost fine again. My head was like a balloon slowly losing air and pressure. Back down at base camp I felt totally fine again.

I think another day/night at 4200m would have been enough for me to eventually reach the summit, but we did not have this extra day, as Hans had a flight to catch back to Germany and me to the north of Chile (although I would have been ready to miss mine to get to the summit, wasn't very expensive).
C • nice story... 1

Monday Jan 1

Running 4:00:00 [3]+1200m
Day 2.

The plan was to ascend to camp 1 at 4200m. While Hans complained about bad sleep and being out of breath from the beginning, I felt excellent. I felt almost like a machine up to 3800m, had absolutely no trouble breathing, legs felt powerful and the backpack felt much lighter than the day before. Weather again fantastic, and we were gaining altitude steadily. We were already thinking of going up a bit further without the backpack after setting up camp, just to check out the route for tomorrow...

At about 3900m, I started feeling some slight pressure in my head and some light headache, but nothing to worry about, I thought. Because of this, I took it easier than before, walked slowly, as there's also no use going fast and then waiting for your colleague. I really wanted to avoid altitude sickness, and tried to do everything people told me before to avoid it. So I thought if I would just take it easy now, drink enough, all would be fine. At about 4000m (first time ever in my life!), we saw the first 'penitentes', very strange peaks of snow that exist only in the Andes, and nobody knows why they are formed. We reached camp 1 at 4200m at about 1pm, Hans being exhausted but otherwise fine, and me still having that pressure in the head and a light headache. After setting up camp and lying down in the tent, problems started. Hans fell asleep immediately after 5h of hiking, whereas I started feeling better and the headache seemed to go away. Ok, so probably it was just the really strong sun here that fried my brains a bit before. Must watch out even more to protect my head tomorrow. Towards the evening, however, the headache got stronger again, and also I felt crappier and crappier, just thinking of food almost made me puke.

Hans was more or less recovered in the evening and wanted to prepare dinner, but I didn't even want to think of food. Headache was also stronger now. Ok, this is what altitude sickness must be like. You stupid idiot, seems that 'wer nicht hoeren will muss fuehlen'. Finally, I did the one thing I definitely did not want to do on this expedition: take an aspirin. I want to get to know my limits with out drugs, and the plan was to go to those limits but not further. Then on the other hand, you only get to know the limits if you cross them, but this was not what I wanted to do. Luckily, I started feeling much better with the aspirin, and eventually was able to eat dinner normally. I considered myself lucky that this helped, because the swiss girl we met at base camp said that she took several, but it didn't help. But for me, this was definitely the last option, and we decided that I would take just this one and then see how I would feel during the night. If the headache comes back after the 6hrs in which the aspirin has an effect and I would need another one, we would descend immediately in the morning, basically the only thing you can do in case of altitude sickness.

The night was actually quite ok, I got quite some sleep, which doesn't necessarily have to be the case at 4200m, and the headache didn't come back and I felt more or less ok in the morning. Hans again complained about being exhausted, but his head was fine. So, we decided to give it a try and ascend to camp 2 at 4800m.
Skiing 1:00:00 [3]
Skating mit den Jungs. Nur Madulain - Samedan, fühlte mich schlecht heute, Erkältung richtig ausgebrochen. Scheine immer noch anfällig zu sein, andererseits ist eine 400%ige Steigerung des Umfangs nicht zu verachten.

War der Hammer diese Woche, immer strahlend blauer Himmel und schön kalt für gute Schneeverhältnisse. Madulain-Lager wie üblich toll :-) Bin auch sehr zufrieden mit dem Training, vom Tempo her hab ich fast nichts eingebüsst, und 12h gute Qualität in 6 Tagen hab ich auch schon lange nicht mehr gemacht :-)
Skiing 1:00:00 [3]
Skating mit den Jungs. Nur Madulain - Samedan, fühlte mich schlecht heute, Erkältung richtig ausgebrochen. Scheine immer noch anfällig zu sein, andererseits ist eine 400%ige Steigerung des Umfangs nicht zu verachten.

War der Hammer diese Woche, immer strahlend blauer Himmel und schön kalt für gute Schneeverhältnisse. Madulain-Lager wie üblich toll :-) Bin auch sehr zufrieden mit dem Training, vom Tempo her hab ich fast nichts eingebüsst, und 12h gute Qualität in 6 Tagen hab ich auch schon lange nicht mehr gemacht :-)


 

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