After the bike we put on some extra layers, grabbed some food and prepared to set off. I wolfed down a family pot of creamed rice after packing the bike away. My knee was sore and I had intended to take some pain killers off Kate after she offered but completely forgot. I must have been distracted as I also only put one gaitor on and forgot to pack my home made flapjacks. I guess I was anxious about my first time ascending Ireland's highest peak in the dark.
We set off just before 3am for a 1.5hr trek up to Cronins Yard. It was half cloudy half starry. At Cronins Yard, the starting point to climb Carrauntoohil (1,040m) we took a brief stop at a bench to check the map and eat. A friendly fat cat accompanied us to the gate to the trail start.
The first 2km were grand following a river and over 2 bridges. The nav was easy. There are a couple main routes up Carrauntoohill. The Devils Ladder is a straight shot between 2 lakes to a col above Hags Glen and up a steep central gully. We opted for a route via O'Shea gully as I wanted to see the highest lake in Ireland too. A more scenic route meant more challenging night nav.
Since we couldnt see a visible trail I worked off a bearing. It was grand until we got to the first decision. I had suspected we were contour line high en route but since the bearing was right I saw no need to drop closer to the river. We could see the peaks against the moonlit, despite the absence of a the actual moon. The problem was as we crossed a stream we had to change bearing. It should have given us a view (if it was daylight) of the line to take through a cliff. We though we had it and started to scramble or rather, rock climb. It was supposed to be easy scrambling and this felt far too technical. It reaffirmed to me that we were too high to start. So we dropped back to the stream and followed it back down towards the river. As we did the right view opened up behind the wall we were attempting to climb and Peter spotted the trail. It was straightforward scrambling to hit the first level, a small plateau.
Next it was simply a matter of tracking a stream up to the next level and to Commeenoughter lake. Daylight was starting at this point and the lake shone an amazing blue. We found O'Shea gully easily and trekked/scrambled up the zig zag last few hundred meters. The peak involved a steep scramble over some snowy patches and icy ledges. I was glad for daylight for this bit. At the summit cross the whole of Kerry could be seen and the rising sun illuminated every peak in the region. It was spectacular. It was also calm and the sun took the edge off the freezing temperature. We sat down for a little while absorbing it and feeling blessed to be up here in quite rare conditions.
Our next mission was to trek across the eastern ridge line to Strickeen at 440m. It involved 10 peaks. 6 at 900m+, 1 at 800m+ and the last 3 at 700m+. We got through the first undulating 5 to Cnoc na Peista at 988m. It was easy nav but hard work and we were tiring. The Cnoc na Peista ridge was a knife edge. You would not want to be afraid of heights! We scrambled half way to the next peak but the climbing was taking its toll on my knee. It was very slow going and I was starting to feel quite sleepy. Not the place to stumble! I suggested to the team that we descend and track back to Strickeen via some lower contouring of the remaining peaks. The descent was mostly on back sides with both arms. It was more rock climbing/descending than scrambling. It was mentally exhausting but we eventually made it from 988m to about 300m and the appetite to contour the rest had waned. I took a bearing and we trekked to the Gap of Dunloe. It involved energy sapping wet and rocky terrain, jumping fences and slipping on our backsides. The last 6km down the road passed smiling tourists in horse drawn carts was exhausting. I was basically 2 nights without sleep (up most of Thurs night with sick baby) and was on auto pilot hanging onto the back of Kate and Peter. Overall it was a good solid trek and we learned lots about the terrain. I was wiped of energy and slept most of the way home in Kate's car.
As day started to break we were half way up and the moon showed up over the Peak
Snowy patches and icy ledges made for careful treading
The cross at the peak as the sun rose