The next section of the course seemed to be the crux of the race. We arrived at Beatrice Lake after midnight. If the trail we had been told about was there travel would be easy but if not... As we neared the lake we saw headlamps coming back toward us. Confused at first we then recognized Custom Cellular coming towards us. Tom explained that Lucy was not feeling well having reaggravated a lung issue from a previous race. They had decided to pull the plug rather than venture further into Valhalla Park. Tom proceeded to tell me he had spent quite a while looking for a trail on the north shore and hadn't seen anything. Not good news to hear. They wished us luck and headed back down the trail. They also told us that they hadn't seen anyone else so they presumed that we were in second place. VJ tells me she saw Yoaslackers sleeping under a tarp somewhere along the way. DART told us they slept under a cliff.
It was raining quite heavily now and since we needed to regroup and create a new plan of action we restarted the fire custom cellular had just put out (the embers were still warm) and dried off a bit. The decision to make was north shore or south shore. North was loner but looked less steep. It also had a few bigger creek crossings that worried me a bit. South was steeper, slightly shorter and no creek crossings. At some point DAR|T came by and continued on down the lake but I am not sure exactly when. We decided south side and left the warmth of the fire and pushed on. In retrospect we probably could have saved 45-60 minutes here. We quickly found ourselves in some terrible bush. It was hard to maintain a constant elevation above the lake as small rock outcroppings would block the way. We were constantly climbin up or down as well as trying to move forward. Lots of thick bush and very quickly we realized this would take a while. James was freezing and in an effort to stay warm he kept disapearin ahead of us as I tried to keep both him in site in front and Mike and VJ behind. This became frustrating and eventually came to a head when we reached a stream where it seemed we were cliffed out. It was one of those places where I thought we could make it by but wasn't sure if we could make it back if necessary. After a bunch of yelling we managed to sort out that James had one higher and eventually we regrouped. At this point it was starting to get light and I could see we had only travelled about a third of the lake in a couple hours (500m an hour for alot of this section). After a short discussion about the merits of continuing versus backtrackin and takin the other shore (it looked less steep but the creeks looked crappy) we continued to move forward this time a bit closer together. The terrain actually seemed to improve a bit (it is all relative I suppose as it was still thick) we finally made it to the end of the lake. It is hard to convey how hard this section was - it was one of the hardest sections I have done when you combine the context, the weather and the terrain. There is in fact a trail along the north shore of the lake however it follows the rocky shoreline and with the wet and late spring it was under a meter of water. This would have been a very different race if this section took 1-2 hours instead of 8-10. I never asked Geoff if he actually tested the section this year or only last year. Had he known he should have shortened some other section of the course.
Anyway we were beyond the lake but the difficulty was not finished. We climbed a rock slide to partially make it up the first headwall and then slithered our way through a steep alder slope to finally make it to the first of the lakes in the Demers chain.
Once above the lake the terrain flattened however the vegetation was still thick - waist and shoulder height bushes. We arrived at the next lake and got aa good view at the bext headwall we had to climb. It looked ridiculously steep. At first glance there didn't appear to be any easy way to make it up. To the left was a steep snow slope that looked deadly. Just ot the right was a cliff. To the right of this and just to the left of the waterfall was the only weakness in the slope - a steep area covered in alder and a few trees.
This is a view from closer up which actually makes the slope look more reasonable. My first impression was "holy **** are we supposed to go up that?!" My second thought was are we in the right valley?? There was no tracks in the snow along the lake so it seemed like a reasonable question. Being a couple days into a race and being sleep deprived probably didn't help my state of mind but I am pretty sure I had a mini meltdown. The other issue was the need to cross the said snow slopes and any slip would lead to a slide into an icy lake. After taking a few minutes and convincing ourselves that the route did go we carefully made our way across the snow and started up the alder. James must have thought we were crazy to be so worried about falling into the lake but when you are tired your brain does funny stuff. Again we probably wasted 30-45 minutes here. As we started climbing we saw two teams appear behind us near the lake (DART and Momar it turns out) and this actually made me feel better as we no longer felt so alone in the middle of nowhere - weird but true.
The climb actually went OK - it was an upper body work out as we pulled ourselves up using alder and trees - and eventually we made it up the headwall. At some point in the morning the rain had stopped so that helped as well though all the underbrush was still quite wet.
ONce at the top travel improved drastically as we were now in the subalpine and we were travelling on snow. Interestingly I could see no footprints in the snow so was confused as to where WT had gone. It turns out they followed the north side of the lakes while we followed the south. We had a little difficulty descending down to Ice Creek Lodge as we got cliffed out right away. Although it wasn't raining the clouds were thick and it was impossible to see into the valley to get a glimpse of the lodge. We moved a bit north and dropped down directly to the lodge with no problems with that approach. The lodge was a nice oasis. We hadn't slept the previous night - the weather hadn't been condusive to sleeping - and really were hoping to sleep at the lodge. Luckily they let us use the bunks and we settled for an hour nap. We couldn't sleep for too long as it was afternoon already and I didn't want to waste too much daylight for the next alpine section.
It was nice to sleep in the warmth of the lodge however when I woke up I felt terrible. Feet hurt, hands hurt, eyes hurt, groggy. Typical wake up from an AR sleep I guess but seemed worse than usual. While we had slept DART had arrived and was also sleeping. The next team had gone by the lodge and was still descending according to the CP staff (turned out to be MOMAR). We left with DART still asleep and started the climb up the rist pass between. No huge difficulties but the clouds did open up a bit which really helped. Here we are reaching the col - lodge is somewhere 1500 feet below.
Passing through the col we were treated to an amazing view of the Devil's Range. This is one of the reasons you do races like this - to see views like this. Such a rem
ote spot but such spectcular peaks.
We had another couple hours of daylight and we could scope out our route across the valley and then up Lucifer Pass.
Even got to enjoy a cool rainbow.
Travel across the valley went fast - lots of snow - as we contoured around a couple lakes. It started to get dark as we started the next climb. Halfway up I noticed lights behind us. I thought I saw three teams but I think in reality it was only two and they seemed a couple hours behind. AS we climbed the weather turned and the wind picked up. Rain turned to sleet and then ice crystals. James was cold again and he disapeared off in the distance and down the other side looking for shelter. I waited at the col for Mike and VJ. The wind was crazy and as soon as you turned into it your face got pelted with ice - I needed goggles. Another one of those AR moments where you think to yourself what the hell are you doing up here in the middle of the night. As soon as the rest of the team arrived we high tailed it down the other side and found James sporting a very stylish emergency blanket dress. Luckily the wind died down as soon as we dropped some elevation.
The next section was rather confusing in the dark and I am glad that we had some prints I could trust to follow. I knew WT had been there in the day time and I figured they knew where they were going so we followed their prints as best we could. As the snow petered out we did lose them and had to downclimb one sketchy little gully to reach the lake. I know how much VJ hates these sections so I felt bad I hadn't found something easier. I was amazed at how much snow there still was in the basin. We were now at the Gwillim Lakes which is a popular hike in the park. It is one of the few hikes that takes you high up into the range. It was late July and the campground was covered by a meter of snow still!
In the original course design I think we were supposed to climb Gimli peak and rappel down the other side but too much snow (what else) changed that plan. We now had to hike out the summer access trail (6 km) and then 20km down an FSR. We were not looking forward to it. The summer access trail actually turned out to be confusing as well. The first bit was hard to follow especially as we were running low on light having not expected to still be out here. After descending for a while we started climbing which was really confusing. Looking at it afterwards it all makes alot more sense but at the time you kind of feel like you are in the twilight zone and nothing makes much sense. Eventually we snapped out of it when we ran into Tom Zidek and his teamate. They were hiking in to volunteer at the Gwilliim Lkes CP. They confirmed we were heading in the ight direction and gave us the good news that our bikes were much higher on the road and only a couple km walk from the end of the trail. That gave us a boost for sure.
TBC on next day...