Training Log Archive: Charlie

A very fine dinner with the group at Da Paolo, small trattoria at the corner. Certainly no English spoken here. Excellent spaghetti alle vongole, and even better ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta in a light tomato cream sauce. Then R&L went home, while George and I did a bit of exploring on the other side of Viale di Trastevere, where the nightlife seems to be centered. We stumbled on the very beautiful Byzantine church of Sant'Egidio, where there was a choir concert, beautiful singing in a large and highly decorated church with an intricately coffered ceiling and large expanses of gold leaf.

Teams of two on 2012 sprint course at Villa Borghese Park. What a beautiful park! R&I went out a bit ahead, walking all the way, but purposefully. No navigational problems, although the rootstock at #14 is no longer there. So many monuments! Interesting to see the diverse people memorialized, including an Azerbaijani poet and a Uruguayan war hero. I had rolled and stretched extensively before we left, and felt pretty good during the excursion. And G&L finished right behind us.

We had taken a bus to the Piazza della Repubblica, and the metro from there. From the finish we went down the hill to the Piazza del Popolo and walked from there to Piazza di Spagna, where we dropped off G&L at the metro and we walked back.

C • You were so close... 6

Walking back, meandering. We stopped to look at the Ara Pacis through the large window, but didn't go in, and walked all around the Mausoleum of Augustus, which was entirely fenced off. I had read a year ago that it had been restored, but apparently it is not open to the public at this time. Back and forth across the Tevere, crossing once on the Ponte dei Angeli with its Bernini sculptures by the Castel Sant'Angelo, stopping for lunch in Trastevere near the apartment.

We took a trip to the ancient Roman port city of Ostia today. I had been there a year ago with Tullio and Giulia, but the others had not. What a great day! I was feeling pretty satisfied, getting some directions from various locals to buy a bus ticket, find the right bus, etc. We caught the 3b bus to Piramide, then the train to Ostia Antica and the excavations. We had learned about these in our Roman architecture class, and it is fascinating to go there, to sit in the old theater, walk through the baths and the houses and public spaces.

After a few hours of that we went to lunch at Monumento, not far from the ancient city. I had been there last year and remembered it as wonderful, but maybe it was even better. After telling G, L & R how good it was, I was gratified not to disappoint them. For me the highlight was the moscardini (fried baby octopus with leeks). When I say "baby", they weren't even an inch long. Delicious. Then we had ravioli stuffed with fish and in a sauce of whole baby clams and tiny tomatoes, and fettuccine with porcini mushrooms. We parried the insistence that we have cake, but had some grappa given to us despite our protestations. And some really good coffee. So now this is the favorite restaurant.

Back from the restaurant to the train, stopping to look at the 15th century castle and defensive tower.

To the Campidoglio museums with Rhonda, while the others got some rest. Lots of statuary, very beautiful and interesting. My favorite was Marforio, but many many wonderful sculptures, as well as some great Renaissance and later painting and tapestries. Then back in time to go out for gelato with George.

Just being a tourist, colosseum in the morning, then Roman forum and palatine hill. Fascinating stuff, but too crowded. Then we wandered back to I Vascellari for a late lunch, spaghetti con aglio, olio e peperoncini and lovely chicken with spinach and sesame seeds. Then a bit of a nap.

Rhonda and I got it in our minds to go see the tomb of the baker at the Porta Maggiore, more or less the other side of town and off the map I had. So we made a few mistakes, ended up at the Porta Giovanni first, but figured it out. We have been pretty interested in this tomb for a long time, so pretty excited to find it. Than back home again, arriving around 8, in time to go out for gelato with George and Leslie.

This was the walk over to Trajan's market with Leslie and Rhonda, and then into the Museum, while George was resting. Many interesting things from our Roman architecture class, particularly the arches and clerestory in the grand hall. We stopped at Da Teo for lunch on the way back. This was a favorite place from when we were here 4 years ago. We split a salad, rigatoni all'amatriciana and chicken and peppers. All excellent, maybe the peppers the best part.

C • All'Amatriciana! 4

We took a cab to Termini, then the train to Capannelle, where our friend Tullio picked us up. Then home to get Giulia and we went for a walk on the old Appian Way. Lovely. We walked as far as the tomb of Cecilia Metella and back, then I went home with Giulia, chatting in Italian, while the others took a quick trip to the excellent Parco degli Acquedotti, to see the old Roman acqueducts. We had a very pleasant dinner at Tullio and Giulia's. Giulia is a person Rhonda really admires in the kitchen. Tullio was nice enough to drive us back home after.

Out for a brief walk that turned out a bit longer, as there is quite a bit to see. Investigated the bus situation, as we plan to take the bus to the train station when we need to go there, stopped for a cappuccino and pastry at the closest local bar, then strolled over to Largo Della Torre di Argentina to admire the cats. The cats there are fed and cared for by a local shelter, which also sterilizes and vaccinated them and offers them for adoption. Then to Trevi, admiring piazzas and churches along the way. Trevi less crowded than yesterday and certainly worth seeing again. Stopped for lunch nearby, sharing four different salads. At the Piazza Della Colonna we encountered a very talented military marching band, with a very pleasant repertoire. We next stopped at a very well stocked market to get supplies for tomorrow's breakfast. Finally to Piazza Navona and gelato at the renowned Tre Scalini, and admiring the three fountains there. Then home to relax, getting back a bit after 2.

Stroll along the Tevere with Rhonda while G&L rested. There is a bicycle path along the western bank, and fairly long staircases to get down to the paths along the banks. Lots of people out on a warm afternoon. A bit on the east side, but the path there is all cobbled.

Our flight got in around 11, shuttle into town. The Rome airport is very efficient. We were at the apartment around 12:10. Met Rodolfo the owner, then went out for lunch and a walk around town, across the Tevere, past the ruins at Largo Argentino with all the cats, to the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Venezia with the Victor Emmanuel Monument, Campidoglio and Forums. A stroll through the Teatro Marcello, with some reconstruction going on there, and back to the apartment in Trastevere for a much needed nap, and to await George and Leslie. Las time we were here, Trevi fountain was empty and under repairs. Beautiful clean water now, quite a sight but impossibly crowded in a Saturday afternoon.

C • Benvenuti da questa parte del mondo! 3

C • Bucatini All Amatriciana 4

decidedly less energy today than Wednesday, but got it done. Now another two week break from the erg.