Surfing 30:00 [3]
Spent two hours in the water just outside Papeete on a black sand beach. The waves were hard to catch here compared to other places I've surfed. They came from two directions and caused 'bad' waves quite often. It was still an awesome time and I rode the full length into the beach a few times. It was hard work getting out past the break but it was worth it. Now my nose is dripping plenty of water. Actually it kind of pours out when I bend over. I guess I got cleaned out good when I took a few tumbles through the waves :).