Surfing 1:30:00 [3]
Just destroyed out there in the big surf here in Cantano. Had a great time trying though. Immediately upon my arrival at "the spot" where everyone catches the waves (out past where the small waves break) the local asked me who I was, and when I told them I spoke english and was new they taught me how to catch a wave. It was fun trying, but I got genuinely owned. In the end, I got up on my board about 10 times, and rode it in twice, which I thought was pretty awesome. Wanted to go longer but was starving, and sunbruned, and seasick, and had salt water in what felt like my brain from getting tossed so hard crashing off my board flailing like a kid from Minnesota on a surfboard.