Discussion: Denver to Yellowstone - suggestions

It's my annual crowdsourcing holiday experiment! In September we're flying to Denver and are going to visit Yellowstone - but as you all know, it's a long drive and it would be good to stop somewhere on the way. Any suggestions? Should we go see the mysterious Swampfox?

All suggestions welcome - go!

Wait, why do you need any crowdsourcing? You have the solution yourself! Make it Swampfox season.

wabbit season.

I have never met Swampfox, but it does seem like the sensible thing. Roughly where in Laramie is he / (are you, hello Swampfox?!).

Also, any recommendations for somewhere to stay? We're thinking cabins, and obviously inside the park is totally booked up because this is ridiculously last minute for Yellowstone. Trip Advisor is also scary in this area, it seems.

Are you going back to Denver on the return? Just thinking of RT itineraries.

Let me know if you need ideas for the Denver area.

This is pretty tough. There are many interesting routes and so much to see along the way. I'll put forth a few options:

1) I25, then either through Cheyenne with a stop at Veedauwoo rocks, or cut the corner on 287 which is also pretty. Do some O near Laramie, then take 130 west over the medicine Bow mtns, stopping for a hike at Libby flats up top. Then reconnect with I80 to Rock sprgs and north through Pinedale to Jackson Hole. Have the "workin' Folk's special" breakfast at Bubba's in Jackson before heading into the parks. Alt route 287 from Rawlins. High desert across the great basin which is pretty, but be sure to drive *at or below* the speed limit through the indian reservation! The police there are out for cash. If you go this way, take the other route on the return so you can visit the town of Jackson, which is worth a stop, and the Gros Ventre and Winds are beautiful when seen from the south. The Winds are a beautiful place for a hike, but it takes a full day to walk into the high country from any of the trailheads.

2) Take I70 west. Then either go over Berthoud pass (rt 40) through Granby on the west side of RMNP, or continue up on I70 through the tunnel then take rt 9 north, reconnecting with rt 40 at Kremmling. Then Rt 40 west alllll the way across Colorado, with a stop at Dinosaur NM. Continue to Vernal, UT, then take 191 north to I80, with a stop at Flaming Gorge NRA. Continue on 191 through Pinedale as described above.

3) I70 west through the tunnel, past Vail, through Glenwood Sprgs (very very pretty drive through the gorge on I70 here). Continue to Rifle, CO, then 13 to 64 up to rt 40 near Dinosaur. Then to Vernal UT, N on 191 past Flaming Gorge and on to Pinedale.

3a) if you have an extra day, follow 3 as above, but at Copper Mtn take 91 S to Leadville (or go past Vail and take 24 S - both are beautiful). Then take 82 over independence pass into Aspen. Go for a hike up above Maroon Lake. Continue on 82 to Glenwood Sprgs and pick up 3) there.

For the RT do one of these on the way out and one coming back. Lots of variations can be had on these of course. If you don't have much time you should probably just boot your way up to Jackson as quick as possible and spend your time up around the parks. Don't underestimate the time it will take to enjoy them - these parks are larger than many east coast states!

In Yellowstone I highly recommend getting up to Lower Geyser Basin (Old Faithful area) early one morning and go for a run on the boardwalks around the thermal features and up to Biscuit GB and back. Go early so you don't have to dodge as many people. It can be very serene if you can avoid the crowds.

Also in Yellowstone don't miss the Lamar Valley on the grand loop. Its very pretty, and I think thats the best area to see or hear some of the reintroduced wolves (if you're very lucky).

If you're OK with camping there are lots more last minute options. I've found spots in the campground just north of Jackson on the National Elk Refuge. And you can camp for free just about anywhere in a National Forest (or BLM land) if you don't need any amenities. Not the National Parks though - designated campgrounds only or permits for backcountry.

You should definitely at least run on some Swampfox-created maps. Or at least climb Bisbee Hill for a panoramic view. :-)

I like the Hampton in Laramie, but it's not cheap. If you visit Laramie, be sure to visit Altitude Brewpub on 2nd Street, even if you don't like beer. Their brews are awesome, and the food the fantastic. There's also a vegetarian restaurant (if that's your thing) on 2nd and Ivinson called Jeffrey's that also has good food.

When we went from Denver to Yosemite to Laramie one year, we went via Salt Lake City (600 miles from Denver?) and Craters of the Moon park in Idaho (west of Yosemite), not all in one day. Probably should have added some Utah National Parks too.

I had a lot of fun scrambling around on big rocks somewhere near Laramie on my drive to San Francisco (was not an efficient route choice, but a beautiful one).

Wow! I wish we'd booked three weeks vacation now, having heard all this! We have found places to stay, because we're not really into camping where there are big bears :) A cool ranch resort on the way in and out (yup, Denver) and then the KOa camp ground cabins at the west entrance for the rest.

What about the things to see in Yellowstone/Grand Tetons themselves?

Ooooh, so many things. How long will you be in West Yellowstone?

My wife and I drove from Seattle to Laramie for the 2008 US Champs, with a stop in Yellowstone on the way. I'll second Eddie's recommendation about taking 130 over the Medicine Bows, then 287 to the Tetons. That's what we did on the way SE.

Since you're coming out of Denver, you've got some nice Colorado options, too.

I did the Seattle to Laramie run in 1998, with stops at Craters of the Moon and Yellowstone.
One option would be to take I-70 from Denver then head northwest to Dinosaur National Monument, if you like fossils. From there go north through Flaming Gorge to the Tetons and Yellowstone. Might be better to do it the other way, though, and do Laramie on your way to Yellowstone.

When in September? The Laramie Daze event is going on Labour Day weekend.

Done this a couple of times. The Rockies by Denver are amazing and Yellowstone is a long way away. You might consider not going that far. But if you do I'd suggest...

Camp at Vedauwoo by Laramie, just off US80. scrambling, bouldering, climbing, unbeatable (cant remember how you are with climbing, but you can't fail here).

There has always been some doubt as to whether Swampfox actually exists, but I reckon you couldn't make him up. Pretty much any map off Happy Jack road is fun.

Pinedale and Lander are OK for overnight stops. Nowhere else on the way. Wind River range is a nice break in the drive.

Don't miss Grand Teton. Stay at the Climber's Ranch. Try to climb a mountain (we did Woodring, allegedly the easiest but still non-trivial).

Get a backcountry pass in Yellowstone, walk and camp. No American will walk more than a mile from the road, so you can usually find a site less than an hours walk in. Get up in the night: the stars are unbelievable.

Don't be too ambitious in Yellowstone. Distances are big and traffic is slow.

n.b. If I suggest camping, I mean it - I hate camping with a passion...

Laramie is not a very big place, but Swampfox lives in the NE part, just north of the golf course. All of the maps are east of town.

Woah! Maybe should have booked two months?!

Carol - too late for Labor Day, so no Laramie Daze. I have to admit I find the idea of orienteering alone with the wildlife quite terrifying.

Eddie - 4 days at West Yellowstone. Not enough, I know, but we're going home early December, so not many vacation days available :(

Graeme - got to go to Yellowstone, as we're going with George from the lab who's returning to Australia in October and he has wanted to go for his whole 7 years here, but never made it. Of course, they advise that you don't walk alone, so it would have been rude not to agree to keep him company. Then we got massive bargain flights to Denver, waaay cheaper than Salt Lake or anywhere else, and so Denver-Yellowstone it is. Not sure we'll even make it to Grand Teton, but we'll see! Going to stay in Dubois either side of that.

Nothing to fear orienteering alone in the Laramie Range. You might see antelope, which would be cool, there's a slim chance you could see a moose, and there are cattle, which aren't wild, and it's easy enough to choose maps that wouldn't have any. Plus, despite years of actively trying, Swampfox has never managed to touch one (last I knew, anyway). Of course, there are rumors of badgers.... the main thing to be concerned with in that area is Homo nonsapiens submoronus.

Oh, so nothing bigger and more carnivorous? Maybe I can persuade the boys out for a quick leg stretch.

I guess I've also seen horses there... and sheep... and probably ground squirrels or something... pine beetles, I suppose...

Yellowstone is the tops. For wildlife there's bison, elk, wolves, various bears, sandhill cranes, and plenty of smaller creatures. There are waterfalls, canyons, open country, mountains (Mt. Washburn is a moderate hike), and lakes. And about half of the earth's geysers, mudpots, etc. There's the Grand Prismatic Spring! There are plenty of trails, and the park is so huge that great wildernesses lie between the trails.

To get over your ursaphobia I recommend spending your first two days scanning the wide open views for bears, from the safety of your vehicle or from the boardwalks that traverse the hot earth, and asking about bear sightings. You are lucky if you see one.

September is late season. I was there in August 2004, and the staff was already celebrating the passing of the biggest crowds. It snowed (and melted).

Dubois? Yup, we went there. It was full and closed. But you'll be fine if you book.
Much of Yellowstone burnt down in '88. Expect lots of little 25 year old trees!

we were actually there in '88 during the fires

Oh, so nothing bigger and more carnivorous?

Last year at Laramie Daze I saw some sort of wild cat (bobcat?).

How big a cat? Do they have mountain lions there? Bears don't worry me, but mtn lions do... Just make noise and the bears will stay away (or, the odds are extremely good that they'll avoid you).

About 2-3 feet high. I made a detour to avoid getting to close to it. I'd was actually in the process of making a parallel error when I saw it, and hence missed seeing what Swampfox calls the "pretty cool boulder" but seeing the cat more than made up for it.

You could spend a year there and not see everything. And September is the best time of year - crowds are gone but weather is good and things are still open. Get off the trails and you will have the place for yourself. I remember standing in a stream watching a herd of bison shuffle past, the adults on the outside, sheltering the calves in the middle.

From the other side of the world I will add my recommendation for the Wind River Range. Try and get to see the Cirque of Towers. Long day walk, but well worth it. Wonderful place.
The saddles between any of the Teton peaks as well.
Must go back one day.

The drive via Flaming Gorge is v. fine.

I think Spike would recommend that you not miss Bosler, WY.

Don't miss the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Also, the Old Faithful area can be a zoo, so hang out for a while after it spouts, because that is when a lot of people leave. If you happen to get up to the Lamar Valley, look for the wolf nerds, because they only look at wolves. "Hey look! Baby bison playing!" "meh". They will be the ones who back into the pullouts. Don't be shy about asking what people are looking at. Most are pretty friendly.

Thanks everyone, these are great suggestions so far!

What about the best hiking maps you found? It's impossible to tell how good they are from the level of zoom amazon allows...

jeffw - do the wolf nerds all wear those amazing wolf T-shirts too? Or is that a bit too obvious?

A very nice stop on a long drive, just west of Laramie about an hour or so, is the Saratoga Hot Springs. It's free and very hot and very relaxing. Mellows out all the other fabulous ideas posted so far.

I can loan you hi quality topos for yellowstone & grand teton (& winds). They're ~16 years old, but trail systems are well established and don't change much in either park. Let me know...

I also recommend spending time in the Tetons. We've been to both parks in all 4 seasons and once the initial fascination of geysers etc wears off, the Tetons would be my primary choice of destination. Highly recommend the hike to Lake Solitude up Cascade Canyon....

Thanks Clint, but I think I will buy them, then I can scribble and mark them (travesty, I know!). Any idea if they still sell the ones you have?

I'm a big fan of Yellowstone. I don't think you can go wrong. If crowds bother you, the usual advice to hiking a few hundred meters from a parking area works. That said, the busy places are really nice and worth looking at.

Getting up early and staying out a bit late are also ways to avoid crowds. The last time we visited in September we went to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone just before sunset and the normally busy spots were completely empty. We got to see a bright moon rise over the canyon. It was very nice.

For what it is worth...there's lidar data of some of the main areas of the park at: http://www.opentopography.org/index.php

You might also consider the Middle and South Tetons. Both are hike-ups and can be done together on a long day-hike with lots of fun scrambling. You also get a good look at the basecamps for people summiting the Grand. This would give you a really good taste of the Tetons - a little bit of everything. Climbing season for the Grand is probably winding down by then.

Yeah, the Tetons are going to hit you like a ton of bricks when you come down into the park from the pass above Dubois. They'll be hard to resist :)

In Yellowstone I'll recommend these highlights on the driving tour. You should jump into the tourist mindset and just enjoy it. The geysers and springs are way cool. Pack a pick-a-nic basket ("Hey, Boo Boo!"), red checkered cloth - the works, every day and just be a tourist. Stop for an ice cream now and then. Take pictures of chipmunks in the parking lot. Once you've had your fill you can look for quiet adventures off the beaten path.

(in no particular order)

1) Lower Geyser Basin (Old Faithful area)
2) Biscuit Basin
3) Midway Geyser Basin
4) Drive firehole lake drive
5) Lower Geyser Basin
6) Fountain Paint Pots and the artists paint pots
7) mud pots (boiling mud is awesome :)
8) Norris Geyser Basin (my favorite - its big and you can make a longer hike of it)
9) skip firehole canyon drive - slow and not so interesting
10) Mammoth Hot Springs. Really awesome travertine terraced springs. Also good historical info about the park here.
11) Tower Falls
12) Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Viewpoints of the falls along the rim, on both sides. Most excellent.
13) side trip into the Lamar Valley
14) Hayden Valley - stop at the mud volcano. Its just hot splashy brown water though :)
15) West Thumb geyser basin - don't miss this gem, right on the shore of the lake. Also you can buy a shower in the west thumb village if the need arises.
16) Definitely walk through Old Faithful Lodge. Its quite a building. I like to go up a few floors and find a bench somewhere to sit and write postcards, have a coffee.
17) Look at the stars, like graeme said! The biggest, darkest skies I've ever seen were in SW Montana (and Tololo in the Andes, but its close between these two :) Maybe go NW from West Yellowstone to Quake Lake one night. Or stroll around the lower geyser basin in the moonlight.
18) go for that run on the boardwalks around Old Faithful and to Biscuit Basin one morning.

Anyways, you'll get all this info from a regular park map or one of the Rangers at a desk too, but these are the things I like on the tourist tour.

Oh, one thing I've always wanted to do is hike out to the backcountry thermal areas around Shoshone lake.

There's a fun Twitter thread, to describe Yellowstone in six words : https://twitter.com/search?q=6wordyellstory&src=ty....
My favorite: supervolcano that will kill us all

agree that getting an early start at national parks helps avoid the crowds, at least that was my experience in California at Yosemite.

Top Trails book series by Wilderness Press recommends a hike we took at Yellowstone (around 7 mi round trip to geysers) that goes past the non-busy side of Grand Prismatic Spring and visits Fairy Falls (almost 200' drop) and continues on to Spray and Imperial geysers. Hardly anyone goes that way and the geysers were pretty neat. You can hike up a hillside overlooking Grand Prismatic and get fantastic photos.

If you find the book, it's hike 28, p 223. Fairy Falls trailhead, at the steel bridge.

From the 6-word tweets, this one was great: "Took brother, now he's Park Ranger"

Becky - I'm pretty sure Trails Illustrated was purchased by National Geographic, can't vouch if the map quality is still the same though. The new NatGeo maps are readily available at REI/EMS and probably B&N.

Trails illustrated ones are certainly for sale on Amazon. I will get that one!

In response to Eddie's comment about the Shoshone Geyser Basin, I did it long ago. Camped/rolled out a sleeping bag, by Lone Star Geyser and it erupted a couple of times as I slept but woke up each time as the loud roar continued. The hike to Shoshone was great, geyser basin OK but a beautiful place. Saw few people back then and probably not the same but pretty nice.

Made it to altitude brew pub yesterday Janet! Some tasty food but no beer, as we still had a long way to drive. Some awful weather on the way and a useless hertz rental company (2hrs plus) wait at the place before getting a car meant we couldn't take the time we'd envisaged. Had some great coffee at cold creek (?) too. Now in Dubois at a great ranch, and waiting for the boys to wake up before driving to the park. No more reliable wifi or 3G for me from this point!

That would be Coal Creek Coffee...the best coffee in Laramie. Have fun in Yellowstone!

First day was incredible! We saw a family of grizzlies from the car before we even made it into grand Teton, and things didn't really decline from there. Fantastic.

Sounds like you did well not to be in Boulder.

Kissy or others, we're dropping off Ben at Denver airport at 3 then we are not flying till 9 or 10. Any ideas in fun and eating in that time? Some vegetables would be appreciated...

Not sure if you meant today, but for anywhere fun, you'll need to head towards Denver. I know of a few places in Cherry Creek...like True Food for very healthy food or Marg's for not so healthy. Downtown, Euclid's Tavern is great. Proto's Pizza has the best pizza. In the airport, Elway's just opened if you're craving steak.

It's for tomorrow, and we just ate enormous steak! Is there something fun and touristy to do downtown?

Probably just walk up and down 16th St. mall, look at the local wildlife, and pop into a microbrewery. Or do the same in LoDo...probably better restaurants and brewpubs there.

The Forney Museum of Transportation is not far from downtown. Lots of old cars, trucks, bicycles, etc. www.forneymuseum.org

Dammit, we got a crack in the windscreen. So no downtown for us! I did discover the denver airport conspiracy theory though, which cheered me up a bit.

Beware of the blue horse at the airport.

We can't check in yet, so we've not seen the murals. The horse was, erm, interesting?

I'm in the Euclid now kissy! Thanks for the suggestion, great food and atmosphere!

I'm in the Euclid now kissy! Thanks for the suggestion, great food and atmosphere!

Yay! Glad you like it. Welcome to Denver...and the cold.