Training Log Archive: Runner99In the 31 days ending May 31, 2016:
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Tuesday May 31, 2016 #
Bouldering 1:30:00 [3]
Just bouldering, worked two problems, figured out both sequences but need to do a single move on each of them.
Note
Having a rest week this week.
Tuesday May 24, 2016 #
Climbing 45:00 [3]
Warming up. Then did a super juggy onsight. T'was noice. Messed up the end subtlety.
Monday May 23, 2016 #
Climbing 1:30:00 [3]
Climbed a bunch of routes. Did some easy stuff, along with an attempt on a 5.12+. Could have done a bit better on it, but I was relatively happy with the result for the amount of training that I have done.
Sunday May 22, 2016 #
Climbing 2:20:00 [3]
Climbed a bunch of easy routes. Felt really good technically after taking 2 days off, hopefully I can feel like that for nationals. Tried a vert 5.12+ and got stuck in about 2 spots. Then I tried doing the rocktopia wall with only the features, and that was about a 5.12+.
Tuesday May 17, 2016 #
6 AM
Bouldering 30:00 [3]
Warming up. Full lap. Then did about two boulders.
Bouldering 25:00 [4]
Speed climbing boulders without sequencing.
Climbing 20:00 [4]
Led a 5.11+ 4 times speeding it up each time.
splits:
Led a 5.12- nearly to the top 3 times but fell on the last move.
splits:
splits:
Led a 5.12- nearly to the top 3 times but fell on the last move.
splits:
2 PM
Strengthening 50:00 [4]
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 5, 5, 3, 3 (1min rests)
Finger Switches: 2, 2, 2, 2 (1 min rests)
Engaged Hangs: 29s, 30, 26, 28 (")
Leg lifts max: 6.7, 6.3, 4.4, 3.4 (")
Side wipers: 9, 8, 8, 7 (")
Finger Switches: 2, 2, 2, 2 (1 min rests)
Engaged Hangs: 29s, 30, 26, 28 (")
Leg lifts max: 6.7, 6.3, 4.4, 3.4 (")
Side wipers: 9, 8, 8, 7 (")
Stretching 10:00 [0]
6 PM
Climbing 1:00:00 [4]
Climbed about 15 routes led a few. Got really pumped, the route setting at Stronghold is good. Tried out the pink 5.12- (b) and it looks good, so I think I'll try and redpoint it on Thursday. I was able to do all of the moves, so now I just need to string them together.
Monday May 16, 2016 #
9 AM
Strengthening 50:00 [4]
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 5, 5, 4 (1min rests)
Finger Switches: 2.5, 2, 2, 2 (1 min rests)
Engaged Hangs: 30s, 30, 29, 28
Leg lifts max: 6.7, 5.4, 5.4, 4.3 (")
Side wipers: 9, 8, 7, 6 (")
Finger Switches: 2.5, 2, 2, 2 (1 min rests)
Engaged Hangs: 30s, 30, 29, 28
Leg lifts max: 6.7, 5.4, 5.4, 4.3 (")
Side wipers: 9, 8, 7, 6 (")
Stretching 10:00 [0]
Sunday May 15, 2016 #
Bouldering 40:00 [3]
Bouldering after the training.
8 AM
Bouldering (warm up) 40:00 [1]
Warming up in a small area.
Climbing 5:30 [5]
Climbed a green 5.12a and made it almost to the top. (2 clips under). Then I reclimbed it and got to the same spot, but it was 30sec faster.
Bouldering (2nd warm up) 20:00 [3]
Warming up for the seconds route.
Climbing 5:30 [5]
Climbed another 5.12a or b/c can't remember exactly. Did alright on my attempts, only made it one hold further on the next one, but overall climbed it much better the second time.
Running 10:00 [2] 1.5 km (6:40 / km)
Home
Saturday May 14, 2016 #
1 PM
Bouldering 1:00:00 [3]
Doing boulders. Did a bunch of 3's and a nice 4- (V5ish). Then I tried making a route that just turne dout being a 12ish move long boulder problem, which I tried twice.
Climbing 35:00 [4]
Autobelay:
Climbed a 5.11a x4 with trying to speed it up
splits: 42, 36, 39, 37
Lead:
Tried the blue 5.12c. Made it about halfway up with fairly sloppy technique so I was pretty happy with that.
Then climbed a 5.11b 3x speeding it up
splits: 3:44, 3:00, 2:50
Climbed a 5.11a x4 with trying to speed it up
splits: 42, 36, 39, 37
Lead:
Tried the blue 5.12c. Made it about halfway up with fairly sloppy technique so I was pretty happy with that.
Then climbed a 5.11b 3x speeding it up
splits: 3:44, 3:00, 2:50
Friday May 13, 2016 #
6 PM
Running (warm up) 30:00 [2]
For the 400m!
Running 54 [5] 0.4 km (2:15 / km)
54.82 seconds. I might be able to shave a bit off from that if I take 2 days of rest. Came 5 out of 30ish. Fastest was 53.47. 2nd place was only 0.31s faster then me, which doesn't seem like a lot.
Thursday May 12, 2016 #
6 AM
Bouldering (warm up) 30:00 [2]
Full lap of tower. Then did some bouldering. Sent Toni's problem! Happy to be the first to figure out the sequence.
Climbing 25:00 [4]
Toprope:
Almost a full 5.12a one fall at the top. down, 5.11+, down, 5.10-, down, 5.11-, down.
Almost a full 5.12a one fall at the top. down, 5.11+, down, 5.10-, down, 5.11-, down.
Stretching 10:00 [0]
9 AM
Strengthening 45:00 [4]
Warm up: arm swings, 15 pull ups
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (1min rests)
Finger Switches: 3, 3, 2.5, 2 (1 min rests)
Engaged Hangs: 30s, 30, 25, 23
Dips: 11, 10, 8, 7 (")
Leg lifts max: 6.3, 7.4, 4.4, 5.3 (")
Side wipers: 11, 10, 8, 7 (")
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (1min rests)
Finger Switches: 3, 3, 2.5, 2 (1 min rests)
Engaged Hangs: 30s, 30, 25, 23
Dips: 11, 10, 8, 7 (")
Leg lifts max: 6.3, 7.4, 4.4, 5.3 (")
Side wipers: 11, 10, 8, 7 (")
Wednesday May 11, 2016 #
Bouldering 20:00 [4]
Tried my boulder problem twice. Made progress from yesterday.
9 AM
Strengthening 35:00 [4]
Warm up: 15 pullups, arm swings
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (1min rests)
Pinkie/Ring/Middle finger pull ups: 6, 5, 4.5, 5 (1 min rests)
Dips: 7, 5, 4, 3 (")
Leg lifts max: 5.5, 4.3, 4.3, 4.3 (")
Side wipers: 10, 8, 7, 7 (")
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (1min rests)
Pinkie/Ring/Middle finger pull ups: 6, 5, 4.5, 5 (1 min rests)
Dips: 7, 5, 4, 3 (")
Leg lifts max: 5.5, 4.3, 4.3, 4.3 (")
Side wipers: 10, 8, 7, 7 (")
Stretching 10:00 [0]
6 PM
Running (warm up) 10:00 [2]
Running race (meet) 2:11 [5]
I suppose one could say that I burnt out on the second lap, round the first time I had a 58, and was feeling pretty good, but then it felt as though I was carrying sandbags that were getting heavier and heavier, and the last 200m were really slow.
Tuesday May 10, 2016 #
6 AM
Bouldering (warm up) 25:00 [2]
Warm up. Then worked a problem by Jelisa that could be climbed 2 ways, of which I couldn't do the harder.
Climbing (workout) 25:00 [4]
Climbed 4 routes nonstop u and down. About 140 moves, of which most were on jugs. Was feeling sore from yesterday and didn't do that well.
Routes were a 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.10-, 5.10-. :(
Routes were a 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.10-, 5.10-. :(
Core 15:00 [4]
Lots of stuff I don't remember.
Stretching 10:00 [0]
9 AM
Opposition 2:00 [4]
Wall sit wrist raises.
Stretching 10:00 [0]
Strengthening 55:00 [4]
Warm up: arm swing and 15 pull ups
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (1min rests)
3 finger pull ups: 6, 6, 5, 5 (")
Wide pull ups: 5, 5, 5, 5 (")
Dips: 7, 5, 5, 3.5 (")
Leg lifts max: 5.3, 4.3, 4.5,3.4 (")
Side wipers: 9, 8, 7, 6 (")
Opposition: wrist raises
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (1min rests)
3 finger pull ups: 6, 6, 5, 5 (")
Wide pull ups: 5, 5, 5, 5 (")
Dips: 7, 5, 5, 3.5 (")
Leg lifts max: 5.3, 4.3, 4.5,3.4 (")
Side wipers: 9, 8, 7, 6 (")
Opposition: wrist raises
3 PM
Running 14:00 [3] 3.0 km (4:40 / km)
Just jogging.
Running 5:00 [3]
Strides then ABC's.
6 PM
Bouldering 40:00 [3]
Warmed up on jugs. Then made a super crimpy route that I began projecting. Got 5 holds in this session.
Stretching 10:00 [0]
Monday May 9, 2016 #
7 AM
Stretching 10:00 [3]
AM stretch.
9 AM
Strengthening (warm up ) 5:00 [2]
15 pull ups, and arm swings.
Strengthening (workout) 50:00 [3]
Middle/Index finger pull ups: 4, 4, 4, 4 (2min rests)
Pinkie/Ring/Middle finger pull ups: 6, 5, 5, 5 (1 min rests)
Dips: 7, 5, 5, 3 (")
Leg lifts max: 6.5, 5.3, 4.2, 3.2 (")
Wide pull ups: 5, 5, 4, 4 (")
Close pull ups: 6, 5, 5.5, 5 (")
* probably should switch one of those for core, and increase the duration of dips, because I didn't feel my triceps that much. Or I should just wait to the end of the week.
Pinkie/Ring/Middle finger pull ups: 6, 5, 5, 5 (1 min rests)
Dips: 7, 5, 5, 3 (")
Leg lifts max: 6.5, 5.3, 4.2, 3.2 (")
Wide pull ups: 5, 5, 4, 4 (")
Close pull ups: 6, 5, 5.5, 5 (")
* probably should switch one of those for core, and increase the duration of dips, because I didn't feel my triceps that much. Or I should just wait to the end of the week.
Opposition 2:00 [3]
Wall sit wrist raises. Oww.
Stretching 15:00 [0]
hams, glutes, quads, pecs, triceps, forarms, etc..
5 PM
Bouldering (technique focus) 30:00 [5]
Worked a 10ish move crimpy problem with video analysis, trying to get my climbing better. Did improve to the point, until I began getting juiced.
Bouldering (warm up) 5:00 [3]
5 laps on jugs
Stretching 15:00 [0]
forearms, pecs, triceps, glutes, hams, fronts of feet
Thursday May 5, 2016 #
Running race 4:32 [5] 1.5 km (3:01 / km)
Did a 1500m race. Went ok. My heat was pretty fast, and 2 of the track guys got far ahead of me on the last lap (like 13ish sec) and then one guy had more of a kick then me at the end so I ended up 4rth. Its not surprising how I'm not so used to anything over 800m at a 3:00min/km pace.
I think it was an alright performance taking into account that I haven't trained for most of the school year. I'm probably faster for shorter distances right now, but I guess we'll see next week.
I think it was an alright performance taking into account that I haven't trained for most of the school year. I'm probably faster for shorter distances right now, but I guess we'll see next week.
Running (warm up) 10:00 [1]
Wednesday May 4, 2016 #
Stretching 15:00 [0]
As an alternative to lunch..
3 PM
Running 17:00 [1] 3.0 km (5:40 / km)
Slow jog with the team. Actually it was more solitary, I was quite slow.
Tuesday May 3, 2016 #
6 AM
Bouldering (workout) 35:00 [4]
slept:7.0
Warm up. Then tried a few new boulders. Gonna have to work them, so that is good. I'll probably give them a session next week. Sort of out of my bouldering shape.
Climbing 20:00 [4]
Tried a black 5.12+ and didn't see 2 useful feet and so I fell just below the 2nd clip.
For 3 route supersets, I retried the same one and audibly made my way up into a short rest and got nearly to the top but sort of wussed out because of all these horns sticking out of the wall, taking a safe fall instead of a sketchy one. The good news was that I was on the second last hold when I fell, so I nearly sent a 5.12+ on my second go!! A few more grades before 5.14ds though...
The next 2 supersets consisted of a 5.12+ (more like 11-) and a 5.11- (more like 5.10d) in the headwall.
For 3 route supersets, I retried the same one and audibly made my way up into a short rest and got nearly to the top but sort of wussed out because of all these horns sticking out of the wall, taking a safe fall instead of a sketchy one. The good news was that I was on the second last hold when I fell, so I nearly sent a 5.12+ on my second go!! A few more grades before 5.14ds though...
The next 2 supersets consisted of a 5.12+ (more like 11-) and a 5.11- (more like 5.10d) in the headwall.
3 PM
Running (warm up) 10:00 [3] 2.0 km (5:00 / km)
Ran 2 laps around school field, at a rather upbeat pace.
Running (workout) 4:30 [5] 1.8 km (2:30 / km)
Ran 9x 200m w/ 2-3ish min rest between reps.
Monday May 2, 2016 #
6 PM
Forest Orienteering 25:00 [2] 4.0 km (6:15 / km)
Flagging most of the course 4, for tomorrows meet. Looking good. Made a few minor changes to the map along the way.
Running 13:00 [3] 2.0 km (6:30 / km)
Running home.
Sunday May 1, 2016 #
Forest Orienteering (training) 40:00 [3] 5.0 km (8:00 / km)
Was really smooth through the beginning of the course and I increasingly tried straightening my line through to controls. Took the wrong map so I didn't get to run the second half and just followed Tyson back on his course.
Bouldering (warm up) 20:00 [2]
Warming up on boulders. Flasshed a 4- boo yah!
Climbing (mock comp training) 30:00 [5]
Went out onto the first route without having tried it before, and felt quite rusty so I climbed it safely and slowly. The holds were all pretty good and because I was mostly fresh I was able to keep going without a problem for the majority of it. I had one part where I did not figure out my sequence and figured it out on the spot.
Next we were flashing a 5.12c (I was redpointing) but in two attempts I did a lot better then I had the previous 2 times that I had tried it so that made me really happy. On my second attempt I got the knee bar in and was able to shake out and do a few moves into the crux.
Super excited to go run-out a few holds at provincials this weekend!
Next we were flashing a 5.12c (I was redpointing) but in two attempts I did a lot better then I had the previous 2 times that I had tried it so that made me really happy. On my second attempt I got the knee bar in and was able to shake out and do a few moves into the crux.
Super excited to go run-out a few holds at provincials this weekend!